I just received a Holga 120S -- the original version, no B setting, and (along with the Holga N) the aperture switch changes nothing. There seems to be a smaller (f/11?) mask behind a larger (f/8) visible, but moving the selector from "Sunny" to "Cloudy/Flash" visibly moves a narrow lever behind the actual aperture, but doesn't move an aperture mask as it should.
This appears to be the case with all Holga S and N models ever made. but I've read it's easy enough to modify the camera, either to have f/8 all the time (or f/13, if you agree with those who claim it's actually f/13 and f/20) or, presumably by recreating the smaller mask or removing it from the wrong place and attaching it to the lever that moves with the aperture switch.
I was going to ask how to get into the thing to fix the aperture, but apparently someone not only did it, but put up a well photographed and well written tutorial on Instructables.
That means the only remaining question is how to add a B mode to the 120S model (this, and inclusion of a second frame mask, are the only significant differences between the 120S and 120N). I presume this will be something I can work out once I have the shutter out -- this is a rotary shutter, much like the one in my Shur-Shot Jr. or any other 1930s to 1950s vintage box camera. There's a point in the travel of the disk where a simple stop will cause it to hang with the shutter open until the release lever is returned to rest position, at which time the over-center spring will reset the shutter disk. The question that will arise is how to install such a stop in an existing shutter and how to control it from outside the camera once it's reassembled. I'll take pictures as I go, I promise...
This appears to be the case with all Holga S and N models ever made. but I've read it's easy enough to modify the camera, either to have f/8 all the time (or f/13, if you agree with those who claim it's actually f/13 and f/20) or, presumably by recreating the smaller mask or removing it from the wrong place and attaching it to the lever that moves with the aperture switch.
I was going to ask how to get into the thing to fix the aperture, but apparently someone not only did it, but put up a well photographed and well written tutorial on Instructables.
That means the only remaining question is how to add a B mode to the 120S model (this, and inclusion of a second frame mask, are the only significant differences between the 120S and 120N). I presume this will be something I can work out once I have the shutter out -- this is a rotary shutter, much like the one in my Shur-Shot Jr. or any other 1930s to 1950s vintage box camera. There's a point in the travel of the disk where a simple stop will cause it to hang with the shutter open until the release lever is returned to rest position, at which time the over-center spring will reset the shutter disk. The question that will arise is how to install such a stop in an existing shutter and how to control it from outside the camera once it's reassembled. I'll take pictures as I go, I promise...