It is the anti halation layer or at least what hasn't been washed out with previous processing steps. It is also a pretty good sign that it is time for new fixer.consider to switch to a two-bath fixing regiminefor complete fixing.Well, after five years and hundreds of rolls of film developed, this is honestly a first for me. Last night while souping a roll of Ilford Delta 100 (120, if it matters), I poured out the fixer only to discover that it had turned a bright pink color. And I don't mean merely a faint tint either, this was a rich, vibrant, flamingo pink. It almost looks like the anithalation layer that washes out with the developer.
The negatives came out fine, but I've never seen this before. Should I replace my fixer? It's the Kodak 2-part solution with the hardener. I've only run maybe a half-dozen or so rolls through this particular batch; I even did a clip test beforehand and the film cleared almost instantly. I've shot a roll or two Delta 100 in the past and didn't have this happen. More information if it matters: the developer was Rodinal 1+50 and I use a water stop bath.
I'm thinking I might order a new bottle of fixer just to be on the safe side, but I hate to dump relatively fresh chemicals if I don't have to, since I'm cheapI appreciate any insight anyone has to offer! Thanks in advance!
It is the anti halation layer or at least what hasn't been washed out with previous processing steps. It is also a pretty good sign that it is time for new fixer.consider to switch to a two-bath fixing regiminefor complete fixing.
@Logan and @Ralph: I don't think this is the anti halation layer:
- Why would anti halation layer be red/magenta?
- Anti halation layer does not stick to silver halide grains, therefore it would likely wash out during prewash or development. If it doesn't wash out during either of these two steps, why would it suddenly wash out with the fixer?
- PhotoEngineer says it's (there was a url link here which no longer exists).
It does not hurt the fixer and will bleach out over time.
I've seen this as well. Quite often, its with a film that has a few blank frames on it.
Just out of curiosity, how long did you fix the delta for? This usually requires a but more time then traditional grain films.
go with what PE says. He knows this stuff better than anybody here.
Go figure, I checked my chemicals when I got home last night and fixer has indeed reverted back to crystal clear.
I fixed this roll for six minutes, which is slightly longer than my usual five. Should I be fixing longer still?
I think I'm going to chalk it up to being sensitizing dyes, as was mentioned above. Regardless, I did order a new bottle of Ilford Rapid Fixer just to have in case my next clip test gives poor results. Thanks everyone for the input!
If fixer is weak and/or exhausted, there will be retained silver halide in the emulsion, and as a result there will be sensitizing dye that won't wash out. In such a case your film will retain that magenta cast. In your case, on the other side, the fixer did its job well, therefore you had the dye washed out in your fixer.Although I notice in the linked thread, he refers to the film itself being stained pink, not the chemicals. In my case the negatives look fine with no unusual staining or fogging whatsoever.
Evidently the majority on APUG uses weak and/or exhausted fixer
Why sling mud at the majority?
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