Fixer timing

PhotoBob · Jul 16, 2012

According to the Ilford literature included with their fibre papers, one minute is all that one needs to fix a print.
However, I have talked to some photographers who use longer times like 4 or 5 minutes or a two fixer bath.
Which one is right?
Is one minute of fixing a fibre print enough or do I need to reconsider my processing.
My interest is in producing fibre prints for optimum permanence.
What do you think?

Ian Grant · Jul 16, 2012

Both are right, it depends on the fixer & its dilution and the paper.

Ilford's time is good for their fresh fixer that gets changed when the recommened throughput has been achieved (see their datasheets).

Different fixers may well need longer times but with some papers particularly warm-tone over fixing will cause bleaching of the highlights and a slight overall lightening of the image.

I use two bath fixing, using Hypam or Ilford Rapid fixer 1 minute in each bath and then selenium toning that gives archival permanence.

Ian

jordanstarr · Jul 16, 2012

I can fix a test strip for a minute without developing issues, but for a print, I wouldn't chance it and leave it in for about 5 minutes. You could always do a test. Mark 5 sheets #1-5 and put them in for a minute each, wash, dry and see what happens over time. It would be a good experiment that wouldn't cost money or much time....just the waiting game is all.

Ian Grant · Jul 16, 2012

5 minutes in fresh Ilford Rapid fixer or Hypam is enough to cause a significant loss of highlights and and overall loss of density with all the papers I use. Ilford reall do know what they are talking about in their recommended times.

Ian

markbarendt · Jul 16, 2012

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

tkamiya · Jul 16, 2012

I would imagine Ilford knows better than any of us and has tested this in its lab before making the recommendation.

I personally use Ilford RapidFix at 1+4 and use two bath method both bath being one minute long. (yeah, I don't know any better, I guess?) According to Ralph's data in his book, "Way Beyond...", soaking it any longer will make washing more difficult. Plus, over fixing it without way over doing it is better than under fixing.

I like using two bath method because then the second bath is always near fresh without much contamination where as first bath gets pretty polluted near exhaustion. I'd imagine this is a moot point if you always use fresh fixer as some do.

ROL · Jul 16, 2012

1) Follow the manufacturer's instructions (also for very important agitation) unless your willing to test for yourself, in which case you may as well make up your own fixer.

2) Over fixing can occur.

3) Fix needs to be washed out of the print for archival purposes. Less time in the fix = less time to wash. Rapid fixes are a boon in this regard.

4) I'm sure Doremus will weigh in to convince you otherwise and that you must use a 2 bath fix (...and that you really must observe midtwentieth century protocol ).

Bill Burk · Jul 16, 2012

Following the manufacturer's instructions will help you keep a clear conscience as you apply the "stamp" to your print's mount or package.

nworth · Jul 16, 2012

One minute can fix some papers in some rapid fixers (when fresh), but it does not work all the time for everything. Four to five minutes is common for ordinary (not rapid) sodium thiosulfate fixers. Most rapid fixers work well in the two minute time frame. If you do a lot of darkroom work or if you are particularly fussy about archival standards, two bath fixing can be both economical and useful. For rapid fix, you would use about a minute in each bath. Avoid letting prints soak in the fixer, and be sure you agitate throughout the fixing time.

ooze · Jul 16, 2012

I use Ilford's short fixing method, i.e. 1 minute in 1+4 strength Hypam; with an extended final wash. David Vestal's comparative experimental analysis between the two-bath vs one-bath fixing methods in his "The Art of B&W Enlarging" (excellent book btw) is very illuminating. In a nutshell, what he found is that after 10 minutes in a washing aid, 30 minutes in running water resulted in 5 times as much residual hypo per square centimeter paper with the two-bath method compared to the one-bath method. The two-bath method required a further 5 hour soak in water to reduce levels of residual hypo to that of a 30 minute washed and one-bath fixed print.

Vincent Brady · Jul 16, 2012

I lift my print out of the fixer for the last 20 seconds and let it drain until the 1 minute time is up, then straight into the water. Too long a fixing time will shorten the life span of your print. I always follow Ilfords instructions.

Fixer timing

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