Fixer Question

I heard that you could use something that you would use in a pool as a fixer, is that true? What would I look for when buying it? And would I have to add anything to it?

Thanks in advance.

I could see finding a way to use HTH as a bleach, perhaps. But, other than adding water to make your volume, I don't see anythiing that would go in the pool as being acidic enough to use as a fixing agent. I could be wrong.

What you're looking for is Sodium Thiosulfate, which is the active fixing agent in non rapid fixers. You'll need about 250g of Sodium Thiosulfate pentahydrate per litre, but this solution won't have good shelf life. In order to improve it, you'll also need to add Sodium Sulfite. This will give you a reusable fixer. If it's worth or not, is up to you to decide.

Ammonium Thiosulfate is the active ingredient in rapid fixer but you won't find it at the local pool supplier. Sodium Sulfite is used as a buffering agent as well as prolonging the life of the fixer.

Dechlorinator

Dear Southern-Lights,

The product, sodium thiosulfate, is often called "chlorine reducer/neutralizer/eliminator". Be sure to check the label before you buy.

Keep in mind that chemicals are much less of your outlay than film or paper.

Neal Wydra

Thanks for all the help everyone!

I wanted to start developing with Caffenol, and I was hoping that I could get everything I need in a couple stops.

I forgot to ask, by using this method for a fixer, will my negatives last as long is if I bought fixer?

Southern-Lights said:

I forgot to ask, by using this method for a fixer, will my negatives last as long is if I bought fixer?

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If you buy this you are buying fixer (it is just not labelled as such) .

If you use the clearing test and the retained silver test to check this, you will be able to tell how well it is working, and how much capacity remains available for re-use.

The only concern would be that this might not be as pure as the stuff labelled as fixer. Most likely, as others here use this, it isn't a problem.

Sodium Thiosulfate is the active ingredient in standard fixer, and it's the same thing as what's in the de-chlorinator. But you don't know what else is in there, and whatever else (if anything) may or may not be detrimental to the photographic process.

There are other reasons why this stuff may not be a good idea. Formulating a fixer is not as simple as it seems at first. If you're using an acid stop bath (and you should be despite what the naysayers proclaim), the acid carried over into the fixing bath will destroy the thiosufate in short order if there is no sodium sulfite to act as a preservative. Whether you decide this to be an acidic, neutral, or alkaline fixer, you'll need a buffering agent to maintain the required pH level. Bottom line is that if you're doing this to save money, you're not really. A very good and inexpensive fixer is Kodak's Flexicolor fixer and replenisher. It's made for C-41, but it works just as well for B&W materials. A gallon of concentrate can be had for about $10, and when used for B&W work it can be diluted to 1/2 strength to yield 10 gallons of working solution.

Chris, there's no need for a fixer to be acidic. There are plenty of alkaline and neutral pH fixers on the market and they work just as well as the acidic ones. The Kodak's Flexicolor fixer comes in at around 6 to 6.5 pH, and that's only slightly acidic.

I use Ilford's Hypam and Rapid Fixers. I buy them from B&H in 5 liter containers.