Fixer question

WILL WORK FOR FILM · Feb 15, 2017

I am playing around with Ilford delta 3200 recently. I have shot 1 roll (35mm) so far and was not happy with the results. While investigating the issue I have realized that there was a critical error made during development.

Delta 3200 shot at ISO 3200
Developer- D-76 @ recommended time
Stop bath- Kodak
Fix- Kodak Pro Fixer
Final rise- Photoflow

I have come to realize that the countless post about developing delta 3200 @3200 for 6400 dev times is necessary. My first roll was under developed.

The next item of suspicion is the fixer I am using. I have read that hardening fixers are not recommended for Delta films. Not sure if the Kodak pro fixed is hardening. Should I be using a different fixer?

Anon Ymous · Feb 15, 2017

Hardening fixers aren't recommended because they needlessly require longer washing times - water consumption. I say needlessly because modern films, like the Delta 3200 and any other film from a major manufacturer is adequately hardened. I don't know for sure what Kodak fixer you use; could be the powder fixer, or the liquid rapid fixer. If the powder one, then it is a (slow) hardening fixer. If it's the liquid one, then it probably comes with a smaller hardener bottle. Just ignore the addition of the hardener to the final solution and you'll have a rapid, non hardening fixer.

In any case, any fixer, when used correctly will not affect the results, look elsewhere...

WILL WORK FOR FILM · Feb 15, 2017

Anon Ymous said:
Hardening fixers aren't recommended because they needlessly require longer washing times - water consumption. I say needlessly because modern films, like the Delta 3200 and any other film from a major manufacturer is adequately hardened. I don't know for sure what Kodak fixer you use; could be the powder fixer, or the liquid rapid fixer. If the powder one, then it is a (slow) hardening fixer. If it's the liquid one, then it probably comes with a smaller hardener bottle. Just ignore the addition of the hardener to the final solution and you'll have a rapid, non hardening fixer.

In any case, any fixer, when used correctly will not affect the results, look elsewhere...

It is the all inclusive powder form. I rinse for 30min.

bsdunek · Feb 15, 2017

WILL WORK FOR FILM said:
I have come to realize that the countless post about developing delta 3200 @3200 for 6400 dev times is necessary. My first roll was under developed.

This is what I have found. I like the Delta films, but always am generous with exposure and development. I do like rich negatives, and the specified exposure and development don't do it for me.
I use Kodak hardening fixer with no problems. As said above, just wash well. I don't care how much water I use - it comes out of the back yard and goes to the front yard. Works fine for me.

Gerald C Koch · Feb 15, 2017

Hardening fixers are really not needed with today's films as the emulsions are prehardened. As mentioned above when used with FB papers they inhibit exit of silver-thiosulfate complexes and there for increase washing times.

kb244 · Feb 15, 2017

Gerald C Koch said:
Hardening fixers are really not needed with today's films as the emulsions are prehardened. As mentioned above when used with FB papers they inhibit exit of silver-thiosulfate complexes and there for increase washing times.

Yet even ilford films seem to curl up down the center even with adequate drying time.
Unless hardening has nothing to do with film flatness and simply protection of the emulsion surface.

Far as hardening or not, should say right on the box/bottle. We have a few older boxes of Kodak Rapid Fixer at the campus that says "With Hardener" on the label, but we use the Sprint Rapid fixer which has no hardener (though I would prefer a fixer with hardener, since I'm using some older films, and since I can keep it in the wash longer than the usual 5 minutes we do, as the water is constantly running in there the entire evening of classes).

MattKing · Feb 15, 2017

kb244 said:
hardening has nothing to do with film flatness

This.

WILL WORK FOR FILM · Feb 15, 2017

I will proceed with confidence and overdevelop from this point on. I have been asked to shoot my son's band's performance at a local dimly lit restaurant this Friday night. The Nikon F4 will be loaded with Delta 3200 and ready to go. As usual, I applaud the wisdom that is always present in the members of this forum.

jimjm · Feb 15, 2017

I've usually shot 3200 films (Ilford and the old TMax3200) at 1600 and developed normally. Take care with overdeveloping too much as you don't want to lose highlight detail. If you're using the F4, I highly recommend using the spot meter and metering off the subjects faces. If the person is light-skinned, overexpose by 1 stop, for darker skin tones try 0 to -1 stop. This has worked great for me in the past when shooting orchestra dress rehearsals with stage lighting.

Mainecoonmaniac · Feb 15, 2017

WILL WORK FOR FILM said:
The next item of suspicion is the fixer I am using. I have read that hardening fixers are not recommended for Delta films. Not sure if the Kodak pro fixed is hardening. Should I be using a different fixer?

I don't think it's the fixer whether it has hardener or not. Fixer just removes the unexposed silver. It would be helpful if you post the picture of your negative.

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