My friend took me the fixer formula like this: 250g Hypo (sodium thiosulfate) + 2g Sodium Sulfite + 1000ml water = fixer. I think it is so simple, but I have still not used yet and don't know how it is good.
My friend took me the fixer formula like this: 250g Hypo (sodium thiosulfate) + 2g Sodium Sulfite + 1000ml water = fixer. I think it is so simple, but I have still not used yet and don't know how it is good.
All you need for 1000 of fixer is 16 ounces, dry measure, of Sodium Thiosulfate Prismatic Rice Crystals. To that add 10 grams of Sodium Bisulfite. The fixer will last as long as you have the energy to keep printing.
We use 11 x 14 trays (for 8x10 paper) and double everything above, including the water.
My simple fixer formula? Just sodium thiosulfate. Nothing more.
It is prepared very dilute just prior to processing. An exact amount
is prepared. I know ahead just how much will be needed. I've used
rapid fix, ammonium thiosulfate, in the same manner. Dan
This is the none-hardener fixer, in a long time the emulsion in the film or print (developed) will be retrograded, won't it? Everyone suggest the necessary of using hardener fixer...
This is the none-hardener fixer, in a long time the emulsion in the film or print (developed) will be retrograded, won't it? Everyone suggest the necessary of using hardener fixer...
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Non-hardening fixer is recommended for archival purposes on prints. The experts shall have to chime in on non-hardening fixers for film. I have used both with and without hardener for many years for film. Many film emulsions are already hardener included, I am told.