fixer for Pyrocat-HD and some test questions

Hi folks!

I've been following this forum some time, and now decide that I too have something to ask.

I just received my first bottle(s) of Pyrocat-HD developer and I'm about to try it out. And here are my questions:

-Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
hardener)?

-I can't find times recommended for Fuji Acros in 35 mm. The closest thing I find is 7,5 min at 21oC. What are your comments.

-I don't have a densitometer, so can you recommend me a test protocol for determining the optimal speed of the film, and determining the optimal developing time (both for Acros and Pyrocat-HD)

Thank you
Marko

marko_trebusak said:

Hi folks!

I
-Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
hardener)?

-I can't find times recommended for Fuji Acros in 35 mm. The closest thing I find is 7,5 min at 21oC. What are your comments.


Thank you
Marko

Click to expand...

If the rapid fixer from Ilford was all available I would not hesitate to use it with Pyrocat-HD. Image stain is very resistant to change once formed so I don't think the nature of the fixer is as important as some appear to believe.

As for Acros, can not be much help to you. I don't have any good testing data for this film.

Sandy

marko_trebusak said:

Hi folks!
-Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
hardener)?

Click to expand...

Ilford Rapid fix is the only fixer I have ever used with PyroCat or ABC pyro. If it does something detrimental to the negs, I'm sure missing it.

"-Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
hardener)?"

In my experience as well, Ilford non-hardening Rapid Fix works very well with Pyrocat-HD.

"-I can't find times recommended for Fuji Acros in 35 mm. The closest thing I find is 7,5 min at 21oC. What are your comments."

I have worked out a starting point for Fuji Acros developed in Pyrocat-HD. It should be regarded as a starting point only. I have not yet tested it.

I base my recommendation on my experience with Ilford Delta 100, Fuji Acros and Efke 100 developed in 50:1 Rodinal with minimum agitation.

I compared the Rodinal data with my data for Ilford Delta 100 and Efke 100 developed with minimal agitation in 1:1:100 Pyrocat-HD.

For Fuji Acros in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100, try 13 minutes with minimum agitation at 20 degrees C or 12 minutes at 21 degrees C.

I define minimum agitation as two gentle toroidal inversions of the tank per minute.

Presoak the film in water for 5 minutes before developing.

Rinse in water - no acid stop bath after developing.

Fix and wash according to the Fixer manufacturer's directions.

"-I don't have a densitometer, so can you recommend me a test protocol for determining the optimal speed of the film, and determining the optimal developing time (both for Acros and Pyrocat-HD)."

Color minilabs typically will have densitometers and will perform the densitometry measurements for you.

For densitometry, I use photographs of a smooth, evenly lighted, north facing wall taken with the camera on a tripod and the lens focused at infinity. I rate the film at the manufacturer's rated value for these tests.

I meter the light on the subject wall and take a series of 11 or 12 photographs spaced 1 f stop apart. This covers the exposure range of the metered central value (which should produce a neutral gray negative) plus and minus 5 f stops. You will get a good idea of what is going on by visually examining the film after it is developed.

It is a good idea to use a lens aperture which allows you to make all (or nearly all) the exposures by only adjusting the shutter speed.

Hope this gets you started.

Thank you very much, all!

Now lets do some work with this thing!

Marko