First time using Pyrocat HD in Glycol, liquid version kit

I will be mixing some of this developer up very soon and I have a some questions. This is the liquid kit from the Photographer's Formulary and it makes 10LT of Stock A and B solutions.

When first opening the bottles of Part A and B, is there anything to peel away from the tops of the bottles or is there there nothing to peel away? I ask this question because I will be wearing nitrile type examination gloves that I bought at CVS and that might make opening/peeling away paper or those tin type peels a little difficult.

Is there any strong odor from the Part A solution, should I wear a face mask when mixing? The instructions talk about an odor because the developer is a phenol but online I am seeing that it may only apply to powdered versions of this developer? Something about a high vapor pressure point.

Lastly, I don't have 10 liter containers so I am taking it since that this is a liquid I can just measure out say 5ML of each solution A and B to 500ML of distilled water each time before processing? is the order of chemical adding important? I have many 10ML glass pipettes for measuring out small quantities

I also bought eye glasses for protection just in case. Maybe I am overdoing it with the safety, hearing that pyro is a bit on the toxic side. All other chemicals I have ever worked with I never had taken this much precaution.

Once you mix A&B it needs to be used, it will go off in a couple of hours. Add A&B to the water just prior to developing. Dont drink it it, touch it, or get your nose really close and inhale it. Agitate for the first 30-60 secs then 10 secs every few minutes, dont use a strong stop bath or you will lose some staining. Good luck.

I always add the Part_A to the water then the Part_B. I've heard of people adding the Part_A to the Part_B then adding the water. I don't think it's correct.

And as awty says above, you don't need a 10L container! Just mix it when you're about to use it.

Nitrile gloves are fine. You will need 2 syringes or 2 pipettes and you only use the Amount of A and B you need for one shot, example 5mlA+5mlB+500mlWater . If using a leak proof tank or rotary system, the gloves are only needed while mixing.
I use the SP445 tank but I keep gloves on through the whole process until washing/dumping in case of leaks or overflow.
Note pyrocat will stain your working area if spilled.
Label your syringes , and mixing vessels for A, B, or Pyrocat use only. Its very easy to cross contaminate.

There should be no strong odor.
Maybe it sounds strange, but I like the smell of pyrocatechin while preparing the part A, although I always use mask and nitrile gloves when dealing with such powder chemicals.

esearing said:

Nitrile gloves are fine. You will need 2 syringes or 2 pipettes and you only use the Amount of A and B you need for one shot, example 5mlA+5mlB+500mlWater . If using a leak proof tank or rotary system, the gloves are only needed while mixing.
I use the SP445 tank but I keep gloves on through the whole process until washing/dumping in case of leaks or overflow.
Note pyrocat will stain your working area if spilled.
Label your syringes , and mixing vessels for A, B, or Pyrocat use only. Its very easy to cross contaminate.

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What he said. I do not remember there being a seal to peel off the bottle, however for those seals use an XACTO knife to puncture the seal and scrape the seal off the edges.

iakustov said:

There should be no strong odor.
Maybe it sounds strange, but I like the smell of pyrocatechin while preparing the part A, although I always use mask and nitrile gloves when dealing with such powder chemicals.

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I'm not addicted to them, but the odours of the various chemicals we use always brings back fond memories for me. It has for 50 years. I hasten to add that I don't use acetic acid or acid fixer!

From the past:

Thanks everyone for the responses. Sorry for being a little delayed with responding.

My tanks do leak very slightly so I will keep the gloves on. I will place the film tank in an 8X10 spare tray just for the purpose of keeping the tank off the counter. Boy do I have pipettes, lol. I feel more confident now. Thanks guys.

john_s said:

I always add the Part_A to the water then the Part_B.

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That is correct, as per Sandy King himself. I always keep the nitrile gloves on with stainless tanks and reels in case of small drips. If you get a gallon plastic bucket from the hardware store, it makes a super easy and stable water bath. I can run film in winter with the water bath at 25°C and the room in the low 60s F, and the water bath will drop just a tiny bit over 15 minutes. Just add a touch more hot water and it's back to 25°C. This will keep your temp consistent and make it easier to get your negs dialed in.

Also, even if they look a bit thin, Pyro negs can print with surprising clarity. One of the problems I had when I got started with Pyrocat was I still wanted beefy looking negatives. They made me feel good but didn't print as easily or as well as ones that look a bit wan. Took me a while to get that through my thick head.

ParkerSmithPhoto said:

That is correct, as per Sandy King himself. I always keep the nitrile gloves on with stainless tanks and reels in case of small drips. If you get a gallon plastic bucket from the hardware store, it makes a super easy and stable water bath. I can run film in winter with the water bath at 25°C and the room in the low 60s F, and the water bath will drop just a tiny bit over 15 minutes. Just add a touch more hot water and it's back to 25°C. This will keep your temp consistent and make it easier to get your negs dialed in.

Also, even if they look a bit thin, Pyro negs can print with surprising clarity. One of the problems I had when I got started with Pyrocat was I still wanted beefy looking negatives. They made me feel good but didn't print as easily or as well as ones that look a bit wan. Took me a while to get that through my thick head.

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I processed a roll of Ultrafine Xtreme 100 the other night, with varying exposures, and I noticed some thinness but overall the exposures look like they are not bad at all. I too like a sort of beefy negative and when I unrolled the film from the reel I was like "Oh-oh", on some of exposures. Then again I was doing different exposure on that roll.

Another thing I noticed, and it stunned me, was the sharpness. I have looked at sharp negatives before but these really stand out! Even the roll I developed tonight, Ultrafine Xtreme 400, looks amazingly sharp!

The film image does have a different feel, to me. A chocolate-like appearance that looks kind of neat, like the negative was toned. I'm taking it that is the stain? The developer, Part A, looked clear and the viscosity reminded me a little bit of the old HC-110 when I drew it out into the pipette..

So far I am liking what I see,. I can't wait to print these films up. Things have been delayed for me because I have been helping some people out with things and it is kind of unavoidable. I would like more time to do photography and that time will come around the beginning of October. I am trying to get in some shooting and film time in. When October comes I am going to tell some people that I am busy and leave me alone, lol.

Thanks for the water bath tip. I'll give that a go.