First time using Pyrocat HD in Glycol, liquid version kit

[What About Bob]

I will be mixing some of this developer up very soon and I have a some questions. This is the liquid kit from the Photographer's Formulary and it makes 10LT of Stock A and B solutions.

When first opening the bottles of Part A and B, is there anything to peel away from the tops of the bottles or is there there nothing to peel away? I ask this question because I will be wearing nitrile type examination gloves that I bought at CVS and that might make opening/peeling away paper or those tin type peels a little difficult.

Is there any strong odor from the Part A solution, should I wear a face mask when mixing? The instructions talk about an odor because the developer is a phenol but online I am seeing that it may only apply to powdered versions of this developer? Something about a high vapor pressure point.

Lastly, I don't have 10 liter containers so I am taking it since that this is a liquid I can just measure out say 5ML of each solution A and B to 500ML of distilled water each time before processing? is the order of chemical adding important? I have many 10ML glass pipettes for measuring out small quantities

I also bought eye glasses for protection just in case. Maybe I am overdoing it with the safety, hearing that pyro is a bit on the toxic side. All other chemicals I have ever worked with I never had taken this much precaution.

 

[awty]

Once you mix A&B it needs to be used, it will go off in a couple of hours. Add A&B to the water just prior to developing. Dont drink it it, touch it, or get your nose really close and inhale it. Agitate for the first 30-60 secs then 10 secs every few minutes, dont use a strong stop bath or you will lose some staining. Good luck.

 

[john_s]

I always add the Part_A to the water then the Part_B. I've heard of people adding the Part_A to the Part_B then adding the water. I don't think it's correct.

And as awty says above, you don't need a 10L container! Just mix it when you're about to use it.

 

[esearing]

Nitrile gloves are fine. You will need 2 syringes or 2 pipettes and you only use the Amount of A and B you need for one shot, example 5mlA+5mlB+500mlWater . If using a leak proof tank or rotary system, the gloves are only needed while mixing.
I use the SP445 tank but I keep gloves on through the whole process until washing/dumping in case of leaks or overflow.
Note pyrocat will stain your working area if spilled.
Label your syringes , and mixing vessels for A, B, or Pyrocat use only. Its very easy to cross contaminate.

 

[iakustov]

There should be no strong odor.
Maybe it sounds strange, but I like the smell of pyrocatechin while preparing the part A, although I always use mask and nitrile gloves when dealing with such powder chemicals.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Nitrile gloves are fine. You will need 2 syringes or 2 pipettes and you only use the Amount of A and B you need for one shot, example 5mlA+5mlB+500mlWater . If using a leak proof tank or rotary system, the gloves are only needed while mixing.
I use the SP445 tank but I keep gloves on through the whole process until washing/dumping in case of leaks or overflow.
Note pyrocat will stain your working area if spilled.
Label your syringes , and mixing vessels for A, B, or Pyrocat use only. Its very easy to cross contaminate.

What he said. I do not remember there being a seal to peel off the bottle, however for those seals use an XACTO knife to puncture the seal and scrape the seal off the edges.

 

[john_s]

There should be no strong odor.
Maybe it sounds strange, but I like the smell of pyrocatechin while preparing the part A, although I always use mask and nitrile gloves when dealing with such powder chemicals.

I'm not addicted to them, but the odours of the various chemicals we use always brings back fond memories for me. It has for 50 years. I hasten to add that I don't use acetic acid or acid fixer!

 

[Sirius Glass]

From the past:

 

[What About Bob]

Thanks everyone for the responses. Sorry for being a little delayed with responding.

My tanks do leak very slightly so I will keep the gloves on. I will place the film tank in an 8X10 spare tray just for the purpose of keeping the tank off the counter. Boy do I have pipettes, lol. I feel more confident now. Thanks guys.

 

[ParkerSmithPhoto]

I always add the Part_A to the water then the Part_B.

That is correct, as per Sandy King himself. I always keep the nitrile gloves on with stainless tanks and reels in case of small drips. If you get a gallon plastic bucket from the hardware store, it makes a super easy and stable water bath. I can run film in winter with the water bath at 25°C and the room in the low 60s F, and the water bath will drop just a tiny bit over 15 minutes. Just add a touch more hot water and it's back to 25°C. This will keep your temp consistent and make it easier to get your negs dialed in.

Also, even if they look a bit thin, Pyro negs can print with surprising clarity. One of the problems I had when I got started with Pyrocat was I still wanted beefy looking negatives. They made me feel good but didn't print as easily or as well as ones that look a bit wan. Took me a while to get that through my thick head.

 

[What About Bob]

That is correct, as per Sandy King himself. I always keep the nitrile gloves on with stainless tanks and reels in case of small drips. If you get a gallon plastic bucket from the hardware store, it makes a super easy and stable water bath. I can run film in winter with the water bath at 25°C and the room in the low 60s F, and the water bath will drop just a tiny bit over 15 minutes. Just add a touch more hot water and it's back to 25°C. This will keep your temp consistent and make it easier to get your negs dialed in.

Also, even if they look a bit thin, Pyro negs can print with surprising clarity. One of the problems I had when I got started with Pyrocat was I still wanted beefy looking negatives. They made me feel good but didn't print as easily or as well as ones that look a bit wan. Took me a while to get that through my thick head.

I processed a roll of Ultrafine Xtreme 100 the other night, with varying exposures, and I noticed some thinness but overall the exposures look like they are not bad at all. I too like a sort of beefy negative and when I unrolled the film from the reel I was like "Oh-oh", on some of exposures. Then again I was doing different exposure on that roll.

Another thing I noticed, and it stunned me, was the sharpness. I have looked at sharp negatives before but these really stand out! Even the roll I developed tonight, Ultrafine Xtreme 400, looks amazingly sharp!

The film image does have a different feel, to me. A chocolate-like appearance that looks kind of neat, like the negative was toned. I'm taking it that is the stain? The developer, Part A, looked clear and the viscosity reminded me a little bit of the old HC-110 when I drew it out into the pipette..

So far I am liking what I see,. I can't wait to print these films up. Things have been delayed for me because I have been helping some people out with things and it is kind of unavoidable. I would like more time to do photography and that time will come around the beginning of October. I am trying to get in some shooting and film time in. When October comes I am going to tell some people that I am busy and leave me alone, lol.

Thanks for the water bath tip. I'll give that a go.