First time developing 8x10 film

hblad120 · Sep 25, 2006

After putting together an 8X10 outfit I expect to finally shoot my first B&W prints this upcoming weekend. I have ordered FOMA 200 film and I'll be developing in a Beseler drum using either A09 (Rodinal) or Pyrocat HD. I'll rate the fim at 125.

I really don't want to burn through film so I was wondering if I can get some basic information upfront. How many MLs are sufficient for drum development? Can anyone recommend starting times and dilution ratios at 68 degrees for these developers using a drum?

Thanks

colrehogan · Sep 25, 2006

hblad120 said:
After putting together an 8X10 outfit I expect to finally shoot my first B&W prints this upcoming weekend. I have ordered FOMA 200 film and I'll be developing in a Beseler drum using either A09 (Rodinal) or Pyrocat HD. I'll rate the fim at 125.

I really don't want to burn through film so I was wondering if I can get some basic information upfront. How many MLs are sufficient for drum development? Can anyone recommend starting times and dilution ratios at 68 degrees for these developers using a drum?

Thanks

There might be some kind of data sheet in the box with your film, or it might be printed on the outside. Otherwise, check the Massive Development website here: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

Unfortunately, I don't know anything about your particular type of drum or what the minimum amount of chemistry is needed inside it.

reellis67 · Sep 25, 2006

I've done stand development with AGFA Rodinal with 2ml of developer and gotten perfectly good looking negatives, so I would *think* you should be fine with at least 2ml, but I would proceed slowly at first.

I understand where you're coming from, I've been using J and C Classic in 8x10 (~$1 per sheet) rather than the more expensive FP4+ that I normally use in 4x5 and rolls due to cost. It's a nice film really, you might want to try some if you're keeping costs down.

- Randy

pandino · Sep 25, 2006

reellis67 said:
I've done stand development with AGFA Rodinal with 2ml of developer and gotten perfectly good looking negatives, so I would *think* you should be fine with at least 2ml, but I would proceed slowly at first.

I understand where you're coming from, I've been using J and C Classic in 8x10 (~$1 per sheet) rather than the more expensive FP4+ that I normally use in 4x5 and rolls due to cost. It's a nice film really, you might want to try some if you're keeping costs down.

- Randy

Randy,
I've not used Rodinal, but could it be that you mean .2L (200mL), not 2mL?

...Never mind. I see you are stand developing and presumably are speaking of undiluted developer.

reellis67 · Sep 25, 2006

The Beseler drum is just a big daylight tank that sits on a motor base, which can either rotate in one direction or reverse at intervals. They are quite large (at least mine is) and were made for prints unless I am mistaken. I have no idea how much fluid you would use, but when I get home I can check the instructions to see what they recommend.

- Randy

reellis67 · Sep 25, 2006

That's correct - 2ml of stock Rodinal at a ratio of 1:200. I believe that the manufacturer stated that you need at least 10m of stock developer, but I've done a 2ml in 400ml of water (stand development) and gotten good results.

- Randy

don sigl · Sep 25, 2006

I process hp5 in pyrocat hd using a jobo expert drum and a slowed down unicolor drum processor. I use 600ml of solution at 1:1:100 at 68f for 7-9 minutes. This should get you in the park. I would recommend that you shoot 2 negs for eachshot. Process the first one, evaluate it, and adjust processing for the second. I think burning a little film is to be expected when your trying to set up for a new film/development combination. I always shoot 2 negs of a shot whenever I'm not quite sure. (which is most of the time).

Regards,

coriana6jp · Sep 25, 2006

I just developed my first 8x10 negatives in a Jobo Expert Drum this past weekend. (Though I tried tray processing 8x10 first) After reading and looking at the various information, I settled on 200ml per sheet. For 5 pieces of film I used 1 liter of fluid in the expert drum. The results look pretty good. I also have Unicolor tanks here, and know you can only put one 8x10 sheet in it at a time. I would suggest at least 300ml of developer, that should be more than enough to insure good development.

I agree with the post who said take two of everything, I took two shots of everything. Next I am going to try identical shots, developed in Pyrocat HD and see what the differences versus my usual D76 and Rodinal.

Gary

reellis67 · Sep 25, 2006

OK, my drum is the 11x14 version and the instructions state the following

8x10 drum : 1.5oz
11x14 drum: 3.0oz
16x20 drum: 6.0oz

They all sound like far too little, but these are volumes for prints, not negatives and I've never used a rotary processor before. Hope that helps...

- Randy

Konical · Sep 25, 2006

Good Evening, Noel,

Use at least 8 oz. of solution; 10 oz. is my usual for four 4 x 5 sheets (equivalent to your one 8 x 10). With my Chromega 8 x 10 drums, I can use at least 12 oz. without spilling. Basic rule: Since the cost of B & W chemicals is negligible, err on the side of a bit too much rather than a bit too little; the manufacturers of color print drums gave volume recommendations for prints and no doubt had in mind also the relatively high cost of chemicals for color processes.

Konical

raucousimages · Sep 25, 2006

I have used a beseler drum best results were with 8oz of developer. any less and I get a surge mark from the ridge in the drum, you can also shave the ridge off with a cabinet makers scraper ans sand it smooth with 600 grit wet paper. Make sure the drum is perfectly level or one end will not develop correctly. Use the leveling foot on the bottom. My best 8X10 negs are still tray developed one at a time. Long process but great results.

First time developing 8x10 film

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