First Test of Rollei C-41 (blix kit) Kodak Porta 160

[nbagno]

I modified my processing to include a 1:30 stop bath using Kodak Indicator Stop as suggested in these forums. I am happy with the results. I think this is the first time that I do not have any weird stains, or shadow muck that looks like some oil tanker disaster. Not sure if it is because of the stop bath or the new kit, don't really care. (ok kinda do) but my new processing routine will now include a stop bath.

Took a test image yesterday using my Fuji GW690III and scanned on my Leaf Scanner wet mounted at ~2500 spi. Reduced the exposure in PS and bumped things around to try to get the image to look more like what I saw which was way darker than the exposure.

 

[tnabbott]

Nice image! I think using the stop bath is the reason. I had similar issues until I started using stop bath, now my C41 development is very consistent with no spots.

 

[nbagno]

Nice image! I think using the stop bath is the reason. I had similar issues until I started using stop bath, now my C41 development is very consistent with no spots.

You know I am pretty new to processing, and it's nice to finally have an image come out that I didn't have to spend a bunch of time trying to clone out a stain or line in the image caused by processing. Pretty much down to 1/2 or so getting rid of dust in PS.

 

[Rudeofus]

That stop bath probably did the trick, and it will become even more important if you go to larger formats. Make sure you do wash properly after the stop bath.

 

[tnabbott]

That stop bath probably did the trick, and it will become even more important if you go to larger formats. Make sure you do wash properly after the stop bath.

What happens if you don't wash after the stop bath? I haven't so far, going to bleach directly and did not observe any issues. TIA.

 

[bvy]

I think it has more to do with extending the life of your bleach. Stop straight to bleach affects the PH.

 

[nworth]

The problem with blixes in color film processing has been that they leave excessive residual silver metal in the film. I don't know if that is the case with the more modern film blixes. Can anyone describe a process for determining the residual silver in processed color film? What would be excessive?

 

[wombat2go]

What kit are you using?
The Rollei C41 Digibase kit I am using here has separate bleach and fixer.

 

[nbagno]

What kit are you using?
The Rollei C41 Digibase kit I am using here has separate bleach and fixer.

The reformulated rollei kit has blix.

 

[wombat2go]

http://www.macodirect.de/digibase-maxi-super-literbrfor-films-40027brfor-films-10021-p-2013.html

Well I am confused because it still shows separate bleach and fixer, which is better as I understand, and why I buy this kit from Germany



Edit, OK, I see this one now, looks convenient:
http://www.macodirect.de/digibase-ready-usebr3x-385ml-p-2612.html

 

[nbagno]

It's a different formulation for the US. http://www.freestylephoto.biz/660141-Rollei-C-41-Color-Kit-1-Liter

 

[Rudeofus]

What happens if you don't wash after the stop bath? I haven't so far, going to bleach directly and did not observe any issues. TIA.

Sorry for late reply. The problem is specific to BLIX kits. Regular bleach and fix kits have bleach at pH 4-5.5 so the bleach also works as stop bath. BLIX on the other side is set to pH above 6, and at this high pH it won't fully stop the color developer. As a result, the Ferric EDTA will oxidize left over color developer which will then react with color coupler to form a dye.

For some reason I never had obvious problems with small format, but I got nasty yellowish blotches in blue sky on my medium format films, and these blotches didn't happen when I used a proper stop bath between CD and BLIX. A simple Acetic Acid stop bath will suffice for this purpose, followed by a quick wash before you pour in the BLIX.