First Negatives on 4x5! Results....

Hi Guys,
After repairing broken flat springs on my Braflok back I took my camera out for a spin.
It's a Toyo/Omega 45E with a Schneider Kr. Symmar 210/5.6

Apart from a few dust marks that were expected it had streaks which I can't explain can anyone comment? It couldn't be light exposure could it?

The Developer was Rodinol 1:50, I feel that contrast in the highlights is pretty low but that the darks aren't too bad.

They look like light leaks. Could you have pulled the back out a bit when working the darkslide?

What is a Braflok back?
Were you shooting hand held or on a tripod?
What type of processing? tray? tank? if yes to tank, what brand/type?

A Braflok back is a Graflok back, but w/ a B :}

I'm not sure that the contrast is low, rather that the haze is setting in. The stuff closest to you looks nice and contrasty but as you go farther and farther back it gets lesser and lesser on those sea cliffs. You need a good UV filter on there.

I think what winterclock suggested is your light leak issue. But you have issues on the far left too. Better ck your bellows w/ a flashlight inside in the dark, and give that film holder a good look, especially at the taped end.

Probably a typo for Graflok, "B" and "G" are close on a keyboard. Looks like a light leak to me, maybe when pushing the slide in. What was the repair to the back?

Ah the joys of large format. How'd you develop it?

Correct! It's graflock.

I used the taco developing method in a Paterson with 4 negatives. They had varying results but both exposed negatives had streaks in the same general area. (2 turned out blank cos I had to stop after the first holder because I lost track of my white and black tab sides.

The rodinol was a bit crystal looking near the lid but was liquid as usual inside, I haven't heard of rodinol going bad and it's only 3-4 months and has been sealed.

One negative had a light blue streak, I heard this is not fixed enough or anti halation layer? (I washed it for a minute in prebath)

I suspect perhaps the uneven developing is due to the taco method getting bent or angled too?

I don't have a darkroom so loading is done via change bag as is putting in the tank.


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I'm tempted to try stand developing too as agitation may not have been the smoothest!


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Firefox web browser has a built in spell checker under the Advanced Settings general tab, don't know about those miniature hand held devices.

The blue streak is probably due to the restrainer holding the sheet of film in the "taco" position. Your development routine would not cause this problem. Weak developer would have a totally different result. If the Patterson tank is designed to work with a center post and that post is left out then the tank could/would have a light leak but it would affect different negatives differently depending on their position in the tank.

There is light leak along the left edge of the posted photo with the worst/most noticeable by the hill behind the sandy beach and tapers off just above the buildings and roadway. The strong streaking along the central third with a fainter repeat of that pattern along the right hand edge and overall fogging effect suggest the film holder was pulled back from the back frame while removing or reinstalling the darkslide. Its easy to do especially if the focus panel springs are weak. The focus panel should have 10 to 25 pounds of pull at the film holder insertion end. Some Graflok backs have a lever to aid in opening the back for film holder insertion. Check the back for debris in the film holder seating area. Lint or dirt in the corners or the light trap grove at the edges will prevent a holder from seating properly and being light tight in the back. Verify that your film holders have two ribs at the darkslide end, one goes into the grove in the back and the other fits over the edge of the back. Some older, early production film holders have only one rib for the grove in the back and are prone to light leaks. Check the joints on the film holders also. The junction between the top and the film area can separate and leak from pulling back on the film holder when removing from the camera without releasing the spring tension on the holder from the focus panel. +1 on the flashlight check referenced in post #4.

I'm trying to figure out what it is at the bottom center.... just to the right of the breaking waves. At first I thought it was a rock in the water, but the 'shadow' goes to the left, and that's where the sun is.

It looks very much to me like you pulled the spring back away from the camera body when pulling or inserting the darkslide. Pinch the back to the camera body with one hand when pulling or inserting the darkslide.

Then again, since you did some repairs, maybe the spring back and/or the filmholder are not seating properly. Do check that as well before going photographing again.

I, too, am puzzled by the "rock," or whatever it is bottom center. It appears to be some kind of defect, but I'm not sure. Is there damage to the negative?

Best,

Doremus

Great! Enjoy!!

Success is its own reward.

Thanks for the in-depth analysis
Here are my very old looking negative holders,
They look light tight

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Thanks shutter finger, what you say makes sense and I will inspect and clean my camera tonight. The negative holders look old but serviceable. It was tough to close at first but I managed to push the film in the whole way and it shut.

Most likely it could be the Graflock back slipped, a little tension was needed at one point to pull the dark slide out, I've recently reseated my springs and the tension is good. I'll compare holders and see if the dark slides are all the same


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pull both darkslides out then check that the top (darkslide insertion end ) is firm to the film area. Loose, wobbly tops will leak light onto the edge of the film. Blow the darkslide slots out with canned air. Darkslides should slide out and in easily.