Well, first off many of the former USSR cameras weren't the most reliable. Second, this camera is totally dependent on its selenium cell for everything. Third, most of these old selenium cells are not putting out the juice they did when new or are completely dead. Now, you might just get lucky with this one and then again you might not. If it were me I would look into one of the Japanese fixed lens rangefinder cameras, but ask the seller if it's in good working order. Or maybe a folding or box 120 camera since they are all mechanical, but again, check with the seller to see if it is in good working order. Of course that's just me and you have a mind of your own. Plus, it's your money, not mine. Film is fun!Hello all,
First post in the analog forums! Generally I haven't been too keen on trying 35mm analog photography; however, the other day I was trawling Craigslist with no particular ideas in mind and came across someone selling an old Vilia-Auto for $25. For those who don't know, the Vilia-Auto is an old late Soviet (70s-80s) compact camera with a Selenium photocell light meter controlling exposure time; I know very little about it besides what I could find in a cursory search online. I figured for $25, even if it's an absolute brick it's a fun little showpiece.
I received it in the mail this afternoon and besides having to reattach the name plate with super glue, everything on it seems to be working fine. What I didn't find out until I'd been playing with the shutter some was that there was still film in there; an old roll of Kodak HIE. The film was probably completely demolished with double- and triple-exposures as I figured out how the thing works, not to mention it's probably quite expired and I definitely exposed it to a lot of light when I opened it up. That being said, I still kinda want to get it developed to see what turned out. So I guess I have a few questions to ask here:
- Any recommendations for film to try this thing out with? A solid rec for a B&W and a color negative; something a step above budget film that's more about latitude than contrast would be appreciated. I don't know much about film stocks so any info helps.
- Does anybody know any places along the I-270 corridor in MD, USA that do film processing, or somewhere in Alexandria, VA? Trying to find a place that I can fit into my work commute that could develop film for me.
- Anybody else have this camera or other Vilia variants and have any tips to share with using it? I've never used a camera that auto-adjusts shutter speed, so any tips for shooting those would be helpful, as well.
For B&W, Ilford FP-4+
I second that recommendation;easy to develop with lots of latitude.
But Kodacolor 200… has that been available in this century? LOL
The 'some old Soviet system' is GOST (ГОСТ). The GOST number works like ASA (they double when the film speed doubles; not like DIN, where doubling the speed adds three to the DIN number), but there's this confusion. At first, the GOST number was about nine-tenths of the ASA number, so 90 GOST was roughly 100 ASA. In 1987 they brought the GOST number into line with the ISO number. But the Vilia is earlier than that, I think, so is probably marked in GOST.
I have a couple of Soviet cameras with selenium meters. My FED 4's meter is long-dead, but the one on my FED Mikron, which is one of the big round-the-lens ones (like the Vilia) soldiers on.
I think Don's right about your found film; bin it.
The aperture does appear to be working; looked at that last night. Whether or not the selenium cells are working properly is a different issue that I'm unsure about; I can't tell if the shutter speed is changing at all when I take a photo. Worst case scenario I have a goofy little camera to sit on a shelf now.I recommend not developing the film that was in the camera. If you exposed it to light, it's wiped out.
Open the back of the camera and try to look through the lens as you advance and press the shutter. See if the aperture looks smaller when you do that with the camera pointed at brighter light and bigger when pointed at less light. If it does, maybe it can be used.
It may only have been $25 for the camera, but it can quickly ruin $50 of film and processing if it doesn't work.
I can't tell if the shutter speed is changing at all when I take a photo.
Ahhhh I understand, that makes a lot of sense. Missed that earlier. Thanks!! I'll do some more poking and prodding at it this week; heading on a backpacking trip next week so not going to be able to use it properly for a while yet anyway.The shutter speed is fixed - 1/50th. It changes exposure by adjusting the aperture to suit the amount of light. So, if your aperture is stopping down when things are bright and opening up when things are dim, the camera may be working (the selenium cells are responding but maybe not 100% accurately).
I have no way to charge this thing
+1. Yes, many of the Quandary lenses are rebranded Sigma glass, which I'm pretty sure your 28-80mm is.Generally a bad idea to try to charge such batteries, even if you find a way to do it.
Chances are, though, that camera works perfectly well. Most of its kind do. Quantary lenses are ok, also.
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