First Film Camera?

[dralnah]

Hello all,

First post in the analog forums! Generally I haven't been too keen on trying 35mm analog photography; however, the other day I was trawling Craigslist with no particular ideas in mind and came across someone selling an old Vilia-Auto for $25. For those who don't know, the Vilia-Auto is an old late Soviet (70s-80s) compact camera with a Selenium photocell light meter controlling exposure time; I know very little about it besides what I could find in a cursory search online. I figured for $25, even if it's an absolute brick it's a fun little showpiece.

I received it in the mail this afternoon and besides having to reattach the name plate with super glue, everything on it seems to be working fine. What I didn't find out until I'd been playing with the shutter some was that there was still film in there; an old roll of Kodak HIE. The film was probably completely demolished with double- and triple-exposures as I figured out how the thing works, not to mention it's probably quite expired and I definitely exposed it to a lot of light when I opened it up. That being said, I still kinda want to get it developed to see what turned out. So I guess I have a few questions to ask here:

1. Any recommendations for film to try this thing out with? A solid rec for a B&W and a color negative; something a step above budget film that's more about latitude than contrast would be appreciated. I don't know much about film stocks so any info helps.
2. Does anybody know any places along the I-270 corridor in MD, USA that do film processing, or somewhere in Alexandria, VA? Trying to find a place that I can fit into my work commute that could develop film for me.
3. Anybody else have this camera or other Vilia variants and have any tips to share with using it? I've never used a camera that auto-adjusts shutter speed, so any tips for shooting those would be helpful, as well.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Hello all,

First post in the analog forums! Generally I haven't been too keen on trying 35mm analog photography; however, the other day I was trawling Craigslist with no particular ideas in mind and came across someone selling an old Vilia-Auto for $25. For those who don't know, the Vilia-Auto is an old late Soviet (70s-80s) compact camera with a Selenium photocell light meter controlling exposure time; I know very little about it besides what I could find in a cursory search online. I figured for $25, even if it's an absolute brick it's a fun little showpiece.

I received it in the mail this afternoon and besides having to reattach the name plate with super glue, everything on it seems to be working fine. What I didn't find out until I'd been playing with the shutter some was that there was still film in there; an old roll of Kodak HIE. The film was probably completely demolished with double- and triple-exposures as I figured out how the thing works, not to mention it's probably quite expired and I definitely exposed it to a lot of light when I opened it up. That being said, I still kinda want to get it developed to see what turned out. So I guess I have a few questions to ask here:

1. Any recommendations for film to try this thing out with? A solid rec for a B&W and a color negative; something a step above budget film that's more about latitude than contrast would be appreciated. I don't know much about film stocks so any info helps.
2. Does anybody know any places along the I-270 corridor in MD, USA that do film processing, or somewhere in Alexandria, VA? Trying to find a place that I can fit into my work commute that could develop film for me.
3. Anybody else have this camera or other Vilia variants and have any tips to share with using it? I've never used a camera that auto-adjusts shutter speed, so any tips for shooting those would be helpful, as well.

Well, first off many of the former USSR cameras weren't the most reliable. Second, this camera is totally dependent on its selenium cell for everything. Third, most of these old selenium cells are not putting out the juice they did when new or are completely dead. Now, you might just get lucky with this one and then again you might not. If it were me I would look into one of the Japanese fixed lens rangefinder cameras, but ask the seller if it's in good working order. Or maybe a folding or box 120 camera since they are all mechanical, but again, check with the seller to see if it is in good working order. Of course that's just me and you have a mind of your own. Plus, it's your money, not mine. Film is fun!

 

[BrianShaw]

Definitely a challenging way to start!

Suggest Kodak Gold 200 for color. Set the camera at 160, the closest it seems to offer.

For B&W, Ilford FP-4+

Photo Finale

Prints, canvas, photo books, calendars, cards, photo gifts and more

www.dominioncamera.com

Good luck.

 

[dralnah]

Thanks for the help, y'all! I appreciate the heads up on the reliability John; for $25 I'm not looking for a lot here, but I'll definitely take some time to check that everything is working. And for sure when I have the time to sit down and play around a bit more I'll invest in a better camera, this was more something I picked up on a lark. I think my real curiosity with film is going to be large format when I get get together the money for that.

And thanks for the suggestions Brian! I'll keep them in mind.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have a question, what scale does the meter use to set the film speed? Is it ASA or DIN ot some odd Soviet system. In terms of film, for Black and White I recommend a slow film as the camera likely has a low end top shutter speed. I use Foma 100 shoot at 50 and recently Arista Pan 100 at 80. For color, Kodacolor 200 is as good choice, although it cost more Ektar 100 is another slow film. No idea of a processing lab in you neck of the woods. I have used Blue Moon Camera, mail order. You can get prints or just develop and a CD.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Welcome to Photrio!

 

[BrianShaw]

It has a set 1/50 shutter speed.

But Kodacolor 200… has that been available in this century? LOL

 

[RalphLambrecht]

For B&W, Ilford FP-4+

I second that recommendation;easy to develop with lots of latitude.

 

[Don_ih]

I recommend not developing the film that was in the camera. If you exposed it to light, it's wiped out.

Open the back of the camera and try to look through the lens as you advance and press the shutter. See if the aperture looks smaller when you do that with the camera pointed at brighter light and bigger when pointed at less light. If it does, maybe it can be used.

It may only have been $25 for the camera, but it can quickly ruin $50 of film and processing if it doesn't work.

 

[Dustin McAmera]

The 'some old Soviet system' is GOST (ГОСТ). The GOST number works like ASA (they double when the film speed doubles; not like DIN, where doubling the speed adds three to the DIN number), but there's this confusion. At first, the GOST number was about nine-tenths of the ASA number, so 90 GOST was roughly 100 ASA. In 1987 they brought the GOST number into line with the ISO number. But the Vilia is earlier than that, I think, so is probably marked in GOST.

I have a couple of Soviet cameras with selenium meters. My FED 4's meter is long-dead, but the one on my FED Mikron, which is one of the big round-the-lens ones (like the Vilia) soldiers on.

I think Don's right about your found film; bin it.

 

[guangong]

If you are contemplating using film, may I suggest acquiring a reliable camera. Film and lab processing are not exactly cheap. There are many inexpensive cameras on EBay, as well as sellers who guarantee their items such as Roberts Camera and Igor’s Camera, KEH, etc. Find one that fits your budget and won’t be a big loss if you are disappointed with film, but could be useful if you like the idea of film.

 

[George Mann]

But Kodacolor 200… has that been available in this century? LOL

ColorPlus.

 

[dralnah]

The 'some old Soviet system' is GOST (ГОСТ). The GOST number works like ASA (they double when the film speed doubles; not like DIN, where doubling the speed adds three to the DIN number), but there's this confusion. At first, the GOST number was about nine-tenths of the ASA number, so 90 GOST was roughly 100 ASA. In 1987 they brought the GOST number into line with the ISO number. But the Vilia is earlier than that, I think, so is probably marked in GOST.

I have a couple of Soviet cameras with selenium meters. My FED 4's meter is long-dead, but the one on my FED Mikron, which is one of the big round-the-lens ones (like the Vilia) soldiers on.

I think Don's right about your found film; bin it.

The film speed scale is marked as GOST, as Dustin mentioned. Thanks for clearing that up; wasn't sure what the difference was, if any; the film speed selector also appears to have an ASA marking on it which is confusing me, but again, given the age this is probably GOST.

I recommend not developing the film that was in the camera. If you exposed it to light, it's wiped out.

Open the back of the camera and try to look through the lens as you advance and press the shutter. See if the aperture looks smaller when you do that with the camera pointed at brighter light and bigger when pointed at less light. If it does, maybe it can be used.

It may only have been $25 for the camera, but it can quickly ruin $50 of film and processing if it doesn't work.

The aperture does appear to be working; looked at that last night. Whether or not the selenium cells are working properly is a different issue that I'm unsure about; I can't tell if the shutter speed is changing at all when I take a photo. Worst case scenario I have a goofy little camera to sit on a shelf now.

Even in lieu of having a camera I'd use on a regular basis, this is an interesting discussion to have. Still not mad about the purchase, regardless, and all the recommendations are appreciated! I'll have a look around and see if I can find something a bit more reliable. Might have something buried in my parents' storage I can dig up, even if it's not great. I recall seeing a Minolta SLR somewhere in there.

 

[Don_ih]

I can't tell if the shutter speed is changing at all when I take a photo.

The shutter speed is fixed - 1/50th. It changes exposure by adjusting the aperture to suit the amount of light. So, if your aperture is stopping down when things are bright and opening up when things are dim, the camera may be working (the selenium cells are responding but maybe not 100% accurately).

 

[dralnah]

The shutter speed is fixed - 1/50th. It changes exposure by adjusting the aperture to suit the amount of light. So, if your aperture is stopping down when things are bright and opening up when things are dim, the camera may be working (the selenium cells are responding but maybe not 100% accurately).

Ahhhh I understand, that makes a lot of sense. Missed that earlier. Thanks!! I'll do some more poking and prodding at it this week; heading on a backpacking trip next week so not going to be able to use it properly for a while yet anyway.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Heck, open the back, aim it at the bright sky and read the shutter release part way down. If the lens aperture/ diaphragm closes to a smaller hole/corcle you should be good to go. So why not load a short roll of film and take it backpacking.

 

[mollyc]

District Camera in DC (they also have locations in Burke and Arlington) does development.

 

[ic-racer]

My first film camera was a Kodak Instamatic. I found it very limiting without ability to adjust focus, aperture or shutter speed. Especially painfull because I wanted to do close-up photography. After 2 years of begging I finally got a SLR from my parents. The SLR was a huge improvement; highly recommended.

 

[Tomwlkr]

First film camera, a plastic point and shoot using 127 film with detachable flash using m2b bulbs, first 35mm Argus C3, first SLR Miranda Sensorex, 2nd SLR Nikkormat FTN

 

[dralnah]

Alright, finally got around to playing with the Vilia a bit more. The Selenium cells for the light meter are definitely dead; setting the camera aperture lever to Auto while pointing it directly at the sun still had the aperture wide open at the highest film ISO. So that's a bit of a bummer, but the manual aperture settings still work, and the shutter's actually still working quite well. I've got a little camera that shoots at 1/50 and I can still adjust the aperture, so that's honestly not the worst thing I could've bought. Either way, I like how the thing looks. I'm used to shooting manual with my mirrorless; maybe I'll just pick up a light meter and roll with it one day.
I also did some digging and found the other film camera I have; it's a Minolta Maxxum 430si RZ. Looks like it was produced somewhere around the early/mid 90s, and it has a Quantaray 28-80mm lens on it; I can't determine the aperture because it appears to be an autofocus lens, there are pins on the connector. I got it for $14 bucks a few years ago at a Goodwill but never used it because I had bought it as a prop for something I was making a video for. That being said, I can't test it currently; the 2CR5 battery in it is dead (inside of the battery compartment looks clean) and I have no way to charge this thing or any other batteries that fit it, not to mention I should probably swap it out anyway; I have no idea how old that battery is.
The camera's not in terrible shape, looks like it should work just fine after a bit of cleanup. I'll keep y'all posted, but I'm also going to be out the entirety of next week backpacking so can't guarantee any timely updates.

 

[Don_ih]

I have no way to charge this thing

Generally a bad idea to try to charge such batteries, even if you find a way to do it.

Chances are, though, that camera works perfectly well. Most of its kind do. Quantary lenses are ok, also.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Generally a bad idea to try to charge such batteries, even if you find a way to do it.

Chances are, though, that camera works perfectly well. Most of its kind do. Quantary lenses are ok, also.

+1. Yes, many of the Quandary lenses are rebranded Sigma glass, which I'm pretty sure your 28-80mm is.

 

[dralnah]

Hi folks,

Yet another update. I got a new 2CR5 battery for the Minolta, as well as a CR2025 for what appears to be the film window. Everything appears to be working fine; I got some Ilford FP4+ and Kodak ColorPlus to mess around and take a few shots, but I'm going to keep playing around with this thing some to make sure I understand the features right first. The camera has aperture and shutter priority modes as well as a manual mode (and a full-auto mode, though I don't think I'll be using that), so it's definitely capable enough for me. Looks like I'm ready to go, sans equipment to develop myself, which I plan on getting eventually. For a different forum, but I've also bought a 4x5 camera in the past couple of days I'm excited to play with in a couple weeks, by which point I'll really want to develop myself.

I suppose the only frustrating point for me was the inability to find any rechargeable 2CR5 batteries being sold on the market; the only suggestion I could find was to use a jury-rigged setup, replacing the 2CR5 batteries with individual CR123 rechargeables in the same frame. Does anybody have a lead on where I could find a rechargeable 2CR5 battery?

 

[Don_ih]

A 2CR5 battery will last a very long time. The only rechargeable option, far as I know, would be to make a holder and use two rechargeable CR123 batteries. And then the power may not be sufficient to run the camera (depends on the batteries you get).

As for developing, it's pretty simple to get a Patterson tank and develop 35mm film. The tank you get for that may or may not be big enough to hold 4x5 film, though, and may or may not have a reel designed and available for developing 4x5. So you may want to look into getting something that will do both.

Many people develop 4x5 in open trays, but you need a darkroom for that.

 

[dralnah]

Got it. Much appreciated for all the help, everyone! The Minolta's all charged and loaded with FP4+, and I'll be taking some pictures soon. Hopefully I can post them some time in the next couple weeks.