First Fiber Prints--Sure doesn't dry flat!

Marco, what does this "watercolour tape" look like? I went to buy some today in an art store, and they sold me what looks like old-fashioned butchers tape - that is, kraft paper with glue on one side.

Marco B said:

I agree with George Hart about the drying: use gummed masking tape, also called "watercolor tape". You can buy this tape in any good art shop. It's by far the easiest method and only requires the tape and piece of glass, which may even be your house's windows if they do not receive direct sunlight.

No hassling with dry mount presses, piles of books or otherwise...

I have made a full description of this method as I apply it on my website:

http://www.boeringa.demon.nl/menu_technic_dryingfiberbasedpaper.htm

Marco

Click to expand...

Thanks to all !!

I happen to have a Seal 210 pess so I'll try that route and yes the drying screens made the
images look as printed on a satin paper as it has the impressiom from the screen_ assume thats the reason--I'll make aan RC Version and a Fiber verson for my comparison--both papers being Ilford MG.

I'll give it a shot Sunday as after church it'll be a tad hot and humid here in KY--like 95 or 97---pure haze---I'll spend the hot part in the darkroom

Should TLC be a factor in your deliberations
search this NG for, salthill . My posts describe
a long on TLC extremely low cost, light weight,
compact way to dry-and-flat in one step. Dan

A great thread, just the problem I might expect.
I am looking forward to trying FB for the first time. I have (given to me as in part of a school's equipment clear-out) a heated device which I understand is for drying FB prints. It's a little larger than 10x8, a curved polished aluminium surface over which is spread (stretched) a cotton type cover. Looks like the print is sandwiched and heated up. Following our recent visit to the Ilford plant (excellent day out), I have some FB paper to try, courtesy of Ilford.
So, how best to use this gizmo?
Put the print(s) on when nearly dry to flatten?
Put them on when wet?
Face down?...........
All a lot more effort, but FB worth it you say.
Your instruction would help get me off to a good start....
Dave...

I've always had problems drying FB paper. The wild swings in humidity around here don't help. One problem I have is that even when I can get the print flat, it doesn't stay that way. After a month or so, the distortions reappear. The suggestions above will get a print flat enough so you can mount it. Once mounted, the problem disappears.

fidget said:

...
So, how best to use this gizmo?
Put the print(s) on when nearly dry to flatten?
Put them on when wet?
Face down?...........
All a lot more effort, but FB worth it you say.
Your instruction would help get me off to a good start....
Dave...

Click to expand...

Put the prints on when still moist, but not dripping. Just wiping them off is usually dry enough. when the edges have started to dry (and curl), you've left it too late.

As long as you don't have the mirror-finish chromed ferrotyping plate, put them in face up (to the canvas).

Mine has a thermostat, which I usually set at aroung 40 C. It works fine at higher temperatures too.

Thomas Bertilsson said:

Please explain how this makes it easy. I don't get it. It seems like a lot of work.
I just dry my prints, hanging in one corner from a clothes pin, or squeegeed and upside down on screens, put it between two sheets of glassine paper and insert into a heavy book. My prints are flat too, and no mess. I don't even have to work hard to do it. You can re-use the glassine too, or use it to store your prints after they're flattened (as a matter of fact, you probably should store them like that).
- Thomas

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Hi Thomas,

I won't argue that *any* method of drying doesn't cost time... nor that other methods are equally capable of delivering perfectly flat prints... Use the method you like...

However, with some practice, I'm now able to put up some 10-15 30*45 cm prints in an hours time. Yes, there may be faster methods, but it sure is the one requiring the least equipment (if you already have a good window available). You also don't need to spend extra bucks - and space in your home!! (which is a rare commodity in my apartment ) - for large equipment.

One last advantage of the method with tape: you can dry huge prints easily. I regularly dry 40*50 cm prints using this method (it's the largest I can process in my darkroom), but I'm sure it could as well be 1*1.5 meter. Now do that with a dry mount press or a pile of books!!!

Well, maybe a 100 kg "World atlas" would do

johnnywalker said:

Marco, what does this "watercolour tape" look like? I went to buy some today in an art store, and they sold me what looks like old-fashioned butchers tape - that is, kraft paper with glue on one side.

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Hi Johnny,

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the terms "butchers tape" or "kraft paper" (I'm dutch). However, even on English Art / Watercolor forums, I have not yet seen it referenced like that... so it might be the wrong tape.

The tape should be bright white and have a one sided glue layer, the side of which is a bit glossy. Please note that the glue layer is non-adhesive when you buy it! It must come into contact with water to achieve it's adhesive properties. If your tape is already sticky / adhesive, it's definitely the wrong kind of tape.
Since the tape is for artist purposes, both the tape and glue are also acid free and buffered, just like we want in photography due to archivability requirements.

A well, Google now showed me the way to some "brown" colored "kraft paper"..., and NO, that's not how my tape looks , this tape sure doesn't look like an acid free tape type, again, it should be bright white...

I think it's time to visit another art shop . A good shop *should* be able to help you out!

my method is simply to sandwich the print(s) between two sheets of blotter paper, in turn sandwich these between two sheets of glass, and then place my monster unabridged dictionary on top of the glass. of course, any big books will suffice. prints come out pretty flat after 24 hours drying.

@johnnywalker:

Since the tape is for artist purposes, both the tape and glue are also acid free and buffered

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You have it also in brown aquarel tape, indeed you have to wet it, not too much to get the glue adhesive. Do not buy it too small because you need some area for glueing on the glass because there will be some tension on it when the baryta paper will dry and also shrink a bit.

Indeed it's a type of "kraft paper" tape. Rather cheap: About Eur. 5,00 for 200meter/650ft.

Best regards,

Robert (Also Dutch )

cool.