I will state with much force and little equivocation that using chemicals over again with this color process invites trouble. The uncompromising attitude that color chemicals have for even the slightest contamination is overwhelming. I dilute (you might not choose to do so) and use only one shot. Particularly the bleach (I use potassium ferricyanide) is deadly for developer, even with minute quanitites.
From trial and error I have established the following with no problems:
Developer (NO prewet!) Personally, I would diulute much (even 1 + 9) and find an appropriate time. Try about 10 minutes or a bit more with a clip test if you are going to use 100F and see if you like what results. (Why waste a whole roll of film?) This expanded timing is lots easier than the 3.25 minutes mandated by Kodak and done so for lab efficiency reasons. (The reason I am not definitive with my timing recommendations is that I add a bit of sodium carbonate and do not wish to confuse you further, kanishka.)
Stop
Fix (yes, BEFORE bleach!)
Room light OK after fixation: Wash for a minute in clean water
Bleach (I use 2 mL potassium ferricyanide for each 100 mL of water: you can use only 1 mL of PF but the bleach time will double)
Refix briefly (30 sec), but in NEW fixer that can be highly diluted (about 1 + 3)
Wash, dry
I reversed the bleach and fix because of the problems I was occasionally getting with bleaching immediately after development. The fix is kind of a "STOP-FIX" that seems to negate the possible effects of developer combining with even minute quantities of bleach.
You must be ESPECIALLY careful not to expose that film to ANY room light, loading or during development. Even a red pilot light on an extension cord can spell disaster with lower contrast and ugly border areas. (The ability for color film to see the reddish hues of light is intense.) You must get a bright orange border or something is wrong.
- David Lyga