First B & W dev for 30 years.......suggestions

[Gensnap]

I've not developed B & w film since I was at school some considerable time ago.
I take pictures for a living and have to shoot digital.
However, I've just got myself a Rolleiflex and want to dev the film myself.
Firstly, I would appreciate any film recommendations (good contrast and tonality
with medium grain) and a dev to go with.
Appreciate your comments !

 

[Sirius Glass]

Tri-X at box speed [400] is a good place to start.

If you can develop your own film use Kodak XTOL undiluted for starters. Why? See this: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...wFilmProcessing/selecting.jhtml?pq-path=14053 Shadow Detail at rated speed, Finest Grain, Highest Sharpness (Acutance)

Steve

 

[NormanV]

I came back to film photography after 30 years. I went straight back to HP5 rated at 200asa developed with ID11 1 + 3 for 20 minutes. Results were just about the same as I'd always got.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

I too would suggest starting (or re-starting) with something pretty standard such as Ilford HP5 Plus (ISO 400) and Ilford ID-11 developer. Welcome back to the wonderful world of film, and have fun!

 

[Rick A]

Either FP4+ or HP5+ and ID-11 will give you pleasure for a very long time.

 

[fotch]

Hi Gensnap, welcome to APUG. I would start with Plus-x or HP-4 and D-76 or ID11. Are you going to make prints, scan, or both?

 

[MattKing]

Hi Gensnap, welcome to APUG. I would start with Plus-x or HP-4 and D-76 or ID11. Are you going to make prints, scan, or both?

I think fotch meant FP-4 rather than HP-4. Otherwise, I'd agree with him.

 

[fotch]

Whooooooooops. Yes, FP-4.

 

[Gensnap]

Thanks for your inout folks.
A quick poll suggests FP4 / HP5 with ID-11

I will be scanning in the first instance, then if I like what I see I will get it printed
will chemistry.

 

[topoxforddoc]

Whatever you do, just buy one film stock and one film developer. Shoot at least 10 films with that combo before you change anything. I now shoot almost exclusively HP5 and develop in XTOL. That's my preference, it may not be yours. But the differences can be subtle some times. It's just like taking pictures. there's a lot to recommend buying one bod=y and one fixed focal length lens and shooting that for 6 months before you buy anything else.

Good luck,

Charlie
www.charlie-chan.co.uk

 

[Robert Budding]

XTOL is fantastic! I retain nice shadow detail rating HP5+ at EI 320, and I rate Fuji Acros at EI 80.

 

[M.A.Longmore]

.
Welcome Home Gensnap,

This is The Perfect place to get back on the Analog Track.


Ron

From The Long Island Of New York,
And The Macro Management, and Long Island @ Large Format APUG Groups
.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Standard old developer like D76, ID11, or Xtol. I scratch mix D76 a liter at a time.

For low cost with slow film, Rodinal works well at 1:50.

Kodak publication J78 is good read to get technique and time for diffusion enlarger. Take 10% off for condenser enlarger, then run a test roll. Don`t be afraid to use 5 inversions in 5 sec like it says in J78, it works. I will add I do a 90 deg twist when putting it down after agitation.

Tri X is a good film to start.

 

[TareqPhoto]

If i have to choose one or 2 B&W films i will choose Tri-X and HP5 no doubt, i started with TMAX films and they were very good indeed, prefer Ilford films more except for Tri-X of Kodak, Neopan also got my attention lately.
The developer i will use will be one of those 3: XTOL, D-76, ID-11, wish to have Rodinal but not a big problem.

 

[perkeleellinen]

As you're in London, visit these fellows to buy your HP5 and ID11:

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/