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finding the right film/developer/toner combination for life

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Could you elaborate a little bit on what's so special/good about this combination. What are its characteristics? Should I use it because it is a standard or does it especially work well for what I am after?

A lot of pictures I have seen that I liked used X-Tol developer, while I am not sure if this is just coincidence I am still a little tempted to try that one. What do you think about this developer? Is it easy to handle? What are its characteristics? I have read that is produces less grain than the D-76 and that the Tri-X D-76 combination is not such a good choice for smaller negative formats.

They are tools. Consider what you can sculpt with a hammer and chisels and then look at what Michelangelo did. The most special quality of the photographs above is the content. Take a combo and learn all it's quirks, concentrate on subject..Evan Clarke:smile:
 
Something I feel strongly about which I haven't seen mentioned yet: we're advised to stick to one film or paper and developer combination because any combination gives a range of results, not just one result we have to live with. Any film and developer, for example, can give negatives with contrast ranging from very soft to very hard; with grain ranging from fine to large, and so on. As beginners we sort of get the impression that "Tri-X film and this developer" give a particular result and that's not always true. They can give different results, too, which is why we're advised to use a film and developer for a period of time so we can learn all this. If I develop my film for eight minutes instead of seven, what happens? If I agitate twice as much as recommended, what happens? If the temperature of my solutions is four degrees warmer or colder than recommended, what will happen? You have control over the processes and you'll best learn that if you aren't always changing factors such as film stock or developer.

Once you have some experience -- once you can say, for example, that "developing HP-5+ in Xtol for eight and a half minutes as opposed to seven minutes gives me one more stop of contrast" -- then you're probably ready to apply those things you've learned to other films and developers. Over time you'll choose which ones you "like" -- that is, which ones consistantly and reliably give you results you like -- and then you can join the rest of us in complaining that the manufacturer has changed something and it doesn't work the way it used to any more. :smile:

It's just as crazy with paper, by the way: a print is very much susceptable to variations in the process. Get manipulation of contrast down first, then worry about things such as image tone and alternative processes like photolith. Any film and developer, and even more so, any paper and developer combination, is really a kit which you can use to give a wide variety of results. The materials are amazingly open to manipulation not just with different chemicals but differences in process as well. You're going to have a ball! Good luck!

Mike
 
Dear Bonk,

If after a reasonable period you can't make quality images with Tri-X and Xtol, it will be time to give up. ;>)

Seriously though, there are just so many quality products out there it's hard to go wrong.

Neal Wydra
 
Bonk:

Participate in a postcard exchange (if you haven't already) and see how many different combinations are used, and how many seem to work out really well.

That is just to gain perspective.

If you can, try to find a real, living, photographer who has a preference, and will show you his/her work, and give you feedback. Then, unless the components they use (film and developer) are truly weird and unobtainable or expensive, emulate them for a while, see what you can accomplish with informed feedback, and go from there.

It's fun!

FWIW, I like Plus X, and HC110 H.

Matt
 
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