For printing colour? The colour of the filter removes the same colour. So more green in the filter means more green removed.
Or do you mean something else?
Pellicle, from the simple viewpoint that we often take as photographers, we consider white light to be a mix of some reddish, some greenish, and some bluish light. From that viewpoint, and considering your desire to remove (filter out) both some green and some red light, you would want to let the third color, blue, to come through unaffected. since mainly blue light is coming through, if you look through that filter, toward a white light), the filter appears bluish. But it sounds as if you already know this part.If I was wanting to absorb more of the green and some of the red spectra from a light source what colour filter would I use? I know that a blue appearing filter will remove more of the red and green, but what colour will a filter which removes some of the green as well appear?
Wow, kinda makes black and white sound pretty attractive.
is exactly what was throwing me I think ... once I developed an 'adage' "that when it doesn't seem to fit its because everything is opposite to what I'd expect"If your print is too cyan, you want to do the wrong thing, which is to add more cyan.
A bit more comlicated example, per Bob-...'s "Too Cyan..." example: If your print is too cyan, you want to do the wrong thing, which is to add more cyan. However, conventionally, we don't adjust cyan; you want to do the equivalent thing, which is to remove red. However, we don't usually handle red filters, either, so you jump to the equivalent of removing both magenta and yellow. Once you work with this a bit, these equivalents will become second nature. In the meantime, you might want to consult that diagram, with three overlapping circles, labeled red, green, and blue. The little section opposite red is cyan, opposite green is magenta, and opposite blue is yellow.
Normally, we name a filter by what color it passes. For example, if we look at a white light, then raise a filter in front of our eyes and it appears to be red, we would call this a red filter. And of course, it looks red because only (or mainly) red light is passing through to our eyes.1)What does "filtering" connote?
Well, as I said in my first post, in order to truly understand, I think it is necessary to look at the full spectral data. The following explanation, using words, is going to sound complicated and hard to follow, but it should work. ps; no one really needs to know this, it's only for intellectual curiousity, I think, or to make you feel more confident in the rules of "doing the wrong thing."To block magenta and yellow would assume that these two colors "mix" to create the red you are trying to block.
Now that I have tried to confuse everyone with the previous post, I see that I didn't read your questions completely.Doesn't this assumption contradict the very fact that, in the additive system where light is concerned, magenta and yellow are secondary colors, which when combined, cannot form red (a primary additive), but rather form white?
Hi dhroane, let me see if I can explain a bit better.
Normally, we name a filter by what color it passes. For example, if we look at a white light, then raise a filter in front of our eyes and it appears to be red, we would call this a red filter. And of course, it looks red because only (or mainly) red light is passing through to our eyes.
In the case of "light" we cant's see, such as UV (ultraviolet) or IR (infrared), the naming is not always clear. So rather than say that something is an IR filter, it's better to call it either an IR-pass or an IR-blocking filter.
Thank you so much, Mr. Bill! I appreciate the clarity!
So, for your question about blocking magenta and yellow: to block magenta, as you now know, actually means to block both red and blue, while passing the third color, green. in a similar manner, to block yellow means to block both red and green, while passing blue. Clearly these two things are at odds with each other; the one passes only green, while the other passes only blue. If you combine both filters, it seems that nothing should come through. And this IS the case with perfect filters, where they completely pass or block. However, color printing filters are not in the class of all or nothing; they block certain percentages of light. For example a 30 cc yellow filter should block about 50% of the blue light, while allowing virtually ALL of the red and green to come through.
Thank you again, Mr. Bill! Permitting a percentage of the light which the filter is designed to block, to pass through anyways, allows for the combinatory effects gained my using multiple filters.
I really appreciate the time you spent providing me with thoughtful, and most significantly, CLEAR explanations!
You would make a fantastic teacher (if you aren't one already)!
So lets redo the "blocking magenta and yellow" thing with 30CC filters. When we start with white light (100% red, 100% green, and 100% blue), then try to block magenta, this calls for a green filter. So after passing through our 30CC green filter, we'll find this: 50% of red, 100% of green, and 50% of blue light. The next step, blocking yellow light, calls for a blue filter. So applying a 30CC blue filter to the now greenish light, here's what happens: blue light will pass through unaffected, but only 50% of the existing red and green light gets through. Consequently we'll end up with: 25% of red, 50% of green, and 50% of blue. So the final result is that green and blue have equal strengths, while the red has been weakened to half of them.
Now your explanation has caused me to return to the issue which prompted all of this—the tamping down of a print that is "too cyan" by adding, of all things, more cyan!
Correct me if I am wrong, but the nomenclature for filters is what can be the source of confusion. Though we are trying to "block" red with the use of green and blue filters, each one, nevertheless, still allows enough red light to pass through to effectively neutralize at least a percentage of the cyan that would appear in the final print.
But it would still seem that the effect of whatever amount of red light allowed to pass would be overpowered by the additional cyan you have added with your use of the blue and green filters. This begs the question, why go through all of this? Why not devise a red filter, which, too, can be modified in its effects, if necessary, via the partial transmission of the other primaries?
Am I confusing things too much?
Now that I have tried to confuse everyone with the previous post, I see that I didn't read your questions completely.
In your example, I think that actually the result WILL BE reddish light, not white. Here's how: you want to add (not filter) lights, using magenta light and yellow light. In terms of red, green, and blue, the magenta light contains red and blue (it is missing green light). Similarly, the yellow light contains red and green (it is missing blue light). So combining these, we get (red and blue) plus (red and green), in other words, a double portion of red light, plus a single portion of green light and a single portion of blue light. so the overall result should have a distinctly reddish appearance. Of course, it is not a pure red light - it has been contaminated with some green and some blue, but reddish nonetheless.
I hope this is some help, rather than just confusing.
Ha ha, thanks for the compliment. No, I'm not a teacher; I'm just a lifelong photo enthusiast who never lost his interest in it. Although I work in some aspect of the photo industry (end user, not manufacurer), I'm here on APUG just as a hobbyist. By the way, you are quite welcome for any help I've given. And I appreciate your feedback, often it's not clear if anyone has benefitted from advice.You would make a fantastic teacher (if you aren't one already)!
It might seem so, but if you work through the numbers, like before, the result turns out to be effectively the same as having used a cyan filter. I say effectively, because the cyan does not throw away so much of the light, so less exposure correction is needed.Though we are trying to "block" red with the use of green and blue filters, each one, nevertheless, still allows enough red light to pass through to effectively neutralize at least a percentage of the cyan that would appear in the final print.
Nah! You have to develop some comfort, or confidence, that these ideas DO work properly, whether by doing it repetitively, or figuring it out, or perhaps someone you trust says that it is so. Otherwise, whenever something goes wrong, you'll always be wondering if the method is wrong, or if you simply made a mistake.Am I confusing things too much?
For 30 cc green plus 30cc blue: green will block 50% each of the red and blue light, passing 100% of green light. Applied to this light is a blue filter which will block 50% each of the red and green light, passing 100% of blue light. The combined result is: red = 50% x 50% = 25%, green = 100% x 50% = 50%, and blue = 50% x 100% = 50%. So the relative color result is the same as the previous example, where green and blue light have equal strength, and the red light is 1/2 of that strength. However, in this case, all of the actual light transmission percentages are only 1/2 of the previous example, consequently we have to double the exposure time.
But, Mr. Bill, I STILL do not understand why, if a print is "too cyan" in hue, you would "correct it" by adding more cyan AT ALL whether that be with the use of a cyan filter or rather with a combination of blue and green filters? With either method, it appears you are still adding proportionately more cyan than red to a print that the artist has already deemed to be "too cyan."
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