filter for haze

[allsystemsfail]

Any thoughts on reducing atmospheric haze while shooting b&w? I heard a yellow filter helps. What about a polorizer?

Rich

 

[pgomena]

A polarizing filter reduces glare and reflection from objects, even tiny particles in the atmosphere. That can mean some reduction of haze, but if the haze is from heavy atmospheric pollution, a polarizer will do little. Yellow #12, #15, 21 (orange), 23a (light red) and 25 all will help reduce haze effects to some extent. It depends on the nature (and color) of the haze. Lots of dust or atmospheric pollution can be impossible eliminate. Also, a polarizer is most effective at 90 degrees to the sun, so it may have no effect in some cases.

Peter Gomena

 

[Jim Noel]

The most effective filter for cutting haze is red. Of course, it severely alters the contrast in the negative, but will all but eliminate atmospheric haze.
On the other hand, why eliminate haze? It is a part of the natural worrld, as well as man-made. It is a fact of life and often adds to the depth of the image.

 

[allsystemsfail]

Yes, I have used a #15 yellow but it did not due as much as i expected. And yes I agree with the fact that haze can add depth. I was just in Zion this weekend and was shooting across the valley at a cliff and it was just a bit milky looking. (mabey only a half a mile away from were I was standing) I Just worried that It may turn out a little week on the print. I know that the red filter may have cut through but I've found them not pleasing with the orangish red rock. I just processed the negs and they really good. ( My first shots with my 8x10!!!!) Can't wait to contact them. Thanks for the advise.

Rich

 

[pgomena]

Keep in mind that if the distant rocks are red, a red filter will lighten red sunlit rocks whether or not the haze is diminished. A friend of mine is an excellent b&w photographer and he never uses any filtration. The "air" of distance in his photos due to the haze is wonderful.

Peter Gomena

 

[patrickjames]

I am not sure you necessarily want to reduce haze in this instance. This can give wonderful depth to an image. If you do then I second the red filter which can also be used with a polarizer if you want.

Patrick

 

[scott k]

Rich,

I was shooting FP4+ and tried an orange filter (couldn't find my yellow filter at the time) to darken the sky while photographing an old mill painted 'barn' red. The orange filter lightened the color of the building so much I just can't get the print to 'look' right. Next time I'll try a polarizer. I think a red or orange filter will destroy the 'look' if your are dealing with red rocks.

Scott

 

[Sirius Glass]

Rich,

I was shooting FP4+ and tried an orange filter (couldn't find my yellow filter at the time) to darken the sky while photographing an old mill painted 'barn' red. The orange filter lightened the color of the building so much I just can't get the print to 'look' right. Next time I'll try a polarizer. I think a red or orange filter will destroy the 'look' if your are dealing with red rocks.

Scott

I use the polarizer for red rocks with UC 400. It darkens the ski and saturates the colors a small amount.

Steve

 

[User Removed]

There is a filter out there that has almost ZERO color to it, so it does not affect the tones in the image, but it nearly 100% eliminates all haze in the air. I cannot recall what the number of the filter is however. It can be used in combination with other filters as well.

This is what I suggest over colored filters that will change your tones.

 

[Helen B]

Doesn't it depend on what you call 'haze'? If it is visible then it cannot really be removed without affecting the colour of the image. All that can be done without affecting the colour significantly is to cut out the ultraviolet radiation and a little bit of the blue light so that the film 'sees' about the same amount of haze that you do. You can usually get away with a bit of a blue cut without departing from the percieved colour, especially at altitude - but that applies to colour film, not to B&W.

Best,
Helen

 

[Sirius Glass]

There is a filter out there that has almost ZERO color to it, so it does not affect the tones in the image, but it nearly 100% eliminates all haze in the air. I cannot recall what the number of the filter is however. It can be used in combination with other filters as well.

Oh yes, I remember now. It is called a lens cap!

Steve

 

[BrianShaw]

Doesn't it depend on what you call 'haze'?

Helen, this was my first thought upon reading this thread. Where I'm from 'haze' is a generic term that seems to mean several different things, ranging from high-altitude UV to hydrocarbon-based smog to particulate-based wind-blown dust or smoke. UV is incredibly easy to filter but the others aren't so easy in my experience. My solution for smog or dust/smoke is to shoot on another day or accept it as part of the environment being photographed. But that's just my method... maybe there are other options.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Helen, this was my first thought upon reading this thread. Where I'm from 'haze' is a generic term that seems to mean several different things, ranging from high-altitude UV to hydrocarbon-based smog to particulate-based wind-blown dust or smoke. UV is incredibly easy to filter but the others aren't so easy in my experience. My solution for smog or dust/smoke is to shoot on another day or accept it as part of the environment being photographed. But that's just my method... maybe there are other options.

*2

When there is a lot of UV or just light scatter from moisture, filters will remove some of that but the mountains still do not show up well.

If it doesn't come out with a polarizer, UV, skylight, yellow or red filter, I either choose subjects that are closer or pack up the camera for a better day and just enjoy where I am.

Steve