Film with narrow exposure latitude

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hidesert

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What film can you think of that is available in 120 that has the least exposure latitude? I just had one of my Rollei TLR's CLAed and have a printout of the shutter speed tests. What I'd like to do is take my other Rollei and do a side-by-side comparison at all the shutter speeds. I'd like the film to show any differences as clearly as possible.
 

Domin

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I think it'd be simpler and cheaper to use your regular film and develop it in paper developer. That should give you quite high contrast.
 

Robland

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That sounds like a high contrast film that would produce black or white making your test process flawed. Would you please elaborate your test process?
 

2F/2F

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Ilford Pan F
Efke 50
Rollei ATP

...are three I would suggest for b/w neg.

I would also suggest Scala, as a neg or as a pos, but I would not waste this on testing if I had any of it.

I would use color transparency if the aim is just to test cameras, and not print pictures, however. I suggest Fuji Velvia 100F.
 

ic-racer

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Just check zone I and don't worry about the exposure latitude. Exposure latitude is an indication of how many stops of exposure required to reach the shoulder and is not part of the test.
 

2F/2F

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A film with low exposure latitude will quickly and easily allow the OP visually determine how each of his cameras will expose differently at the same camera settings. This is a camera test, not a film test. He needs to look at overall exposure differences, not Zone I. A film with low exposure latitude will simply make the differences in exposure easier to see.
 

ic-racer

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Zone I test is a only a film test if the shutter and meter are fixed variables. If the film and meter are the fixed variable, then it is a shutter test.

So, again, do a zone I test at the various shutter speeds.
 

richard ide

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If you photograph a 21 step grey scale it will give you variations in 1/3 stop increments and you could use the film you normally use.
 

Chuck_P

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The latitude of the film is a function of the subject contrast more than some inherent quality of the film itself. Slower films are typically more contrasty than fast films for any given subject contrast, but either can be shown to have latitude in scenes with inherent low subject brightness ranges. A subject of low SBR uses less gray scale, therefore there is more latitude for variations in exposure. A subject of high SBR uses much more of the gray scale-----------hence less latitude for variations in exposure.

You want to do the camera test? IMO, pick a slow or medium speed film and photograph a controlled scene of high subject contrast, develop normally.
 

2F/2F

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It is, indeed, a shutter test...as the OP has stated, and as have I.

So, again, do the test with a color transparency film to easily and clearly (which is what you asked for) see your results, and the direct aesthetic differences that result from the differences, without specialized and totally unnecessary equipment. This is much more simple than some are willing to let it be.

Then, when you want to figure out how to control your exact negative densities in order to obtain your desired tonalities on the print, start doing the specific testing...but for now, just throw some chrome film in the things and get it done!
 
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flatulent1

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Any transparency film will work fine for your test. Shoot the two cameras at the same image at the same time. Compare them on the light table. Are they the same? Test complete.

When I'm running a test like this, the first frame shot is of my computer monitor displaying that particular camera's identifying characteristics, such as make, model, serial no...

And then, as it's just a test, have the lab process but not cut the film. I sure hate getting those slides mixed up.
 
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hidesert

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Yep, it's just a shutter test between two cameras - one with tested and known speeds. All other variables would be fixed (unless there are aperature differences between a Xenar and a Planar lens).

I figured a color transparency film would be best. Just wondered if there were any B&W films suitable so I could develop them myself.
 

flatulent1

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Easiest way might be to take the other camera to the same shop and have them run their shutter tests on them. Doug at Camera Clinic here in Shoreline does that for me for free. If they charge, it might still be cheaper than blowing two rolls of transparency film and having them processed.
 
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