All the reels are clean and clear of any sticky material. I also thought about this but couldn’t detect anything.Suggest you first scrub well with a brush and soap and water and let dry overnight. There may have been introduced some sticky material at some point -- I have had the same thing happen to me. Photo-Flo was the problem with me I think. If there is some "goo" of some sort on the reel surface, the pencil trick will not necessarily help.
If everything is clean AND moisture free there is no issues. Is leading edge of film cut cleanly, it should be as square as possible which is not that hard by feel?All the reels are clean and clear of any sticky material. I also thought about this but couldn’t detect anything.
I’m wondering if friction can cause this so the reel sucks the strip and that’s the reason it slows down and stops.
I always cut square and never had a problem. The reason why I tried cutting the triangle shape is because I wanted to find a solution for this problem but it didn’t help.If everything is clean AND moisture free there is no issues. Is leading edge of film cut cleanly, it should be as square as possible which is not that hard by feel?
Tomorrow I try the pencil method advised here and will let everyone know how it went.Let us know your progress so we can coach you through your work. All of us started where you are and have had the same problems.
I always take out the film from the fridge (in summer) hours before I develop them. During winter months I store all the films with the chemicals in the garage where there’s no heating.It is likely a problem with humidity. Changing bags trap moist air, and struggling with a development reel makes it worse.
So you mean soak it in hot tap water for a while (few minutes) and then let them dry and will solve the issue?I've used the Patterson System off and on, for long periods, for at least 40 plus years and the two issues I had on occasion were, stuck ball, and any moisture on a clean reel will surface grip the film.
I made a habit, pretty early on, of using HOT tap water to soak/rinse reels and that pretty much solved those issues.
Yes, that was my thought as well as the two reacted so differently.Matt has a point. Undeveloped and developed films are different and react to moisture differently. Undeveloped films can be sticky if the changing bag's humidity climbs. It happens to my students often as it takes them a long time to load film. The pencil idea sounds interesting.
Yes, I’ve done this with no success. I think it’s really the moisture what should be eliminated.Clipping the corners of 135 and120 film before loading on to reels solves some of the loading problems such as film sticking at the point the film is half way loading on to the reel.
It sounds interesting. What if I do this but moisture develops during that short time while the film and the reel is in the bag? Will this help? You said to keep the film and the reel dry and the loading time to the barest minimum. If I only spend a minute in the bag and moisture can develop withing no time will this method help it?An old technique from a commercial photographer I knew in my home town in Canada in the 1960s.
Take a very soft toothbrush - the ones the hotel chains like Ibis give out when you book rooms with them - and some sodium bicarbonate. Wet the toothbrush, dip into a saucer with a thin layer of bicarb, and lightly brush the inner grooves of your tank reels. Do this about once every three months. Presto! no film sticking - that is, as long as both your films and the reels are dry to start with. Keep your reel loading time in the changing bag to the barest minimum.
This has worked well for me for the past half century.
Yes, sure I always cut it off.Have you cut off the part of the leader that is very bent from the take-up spool (if your camera does that)? If not, do that! It'll have been exposed to light when you loaded the camera anyway.
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