Nicole Boenig-McGrade said:I'd remove the film in the dark, cut roughly where you think the photos/settings change and load onto seperate reels and into seperate tanks.Just what I'd do. That way you can salvage most of each.
One stop either side of the optimum exposure is well within the latitude of B&W negative films, so I wouldn`t bother altering the developing time. The negatives that are under exposed, will be a little bit thinner than the normal ones, so you will probably need to print onto a harder grade of paper.modafoto said:Hi
I have a roll of APX400 in my Olympus OM1, and have rated it @ 400. But some days ago I shot some interesting shots in poor light and I had to underexpose by one stop (= @ 800) to get shots without blur.
Now I have the choice of getting a film with 10 frames that are 1 stop underexposed and the rest correctly exposed (developed to ISO 400) or having 10 shots correctly exposed and the rest 1 stop overexposed (developed to ISO 800)...
I think of going with the last option as 1 stop overexposed is better than 1 stop underexposed. The B/W negative film is, after all, a forgiving one.
What would you do?
Morten
df cardwell said:Morten
How do you normally process APX 400 in Rodinal ?
Eight holes make an image on 135/36 film.... So if you can count well in the dark, you will not loose anything.Nicole Boenig-McGrade said:I'd remove the film in the dark, cut roughly where you think the photos/settings change and load onto seperate reels and into seperate tanks.Just what I'd do. That way you can salvage most of each.
....as long as you know the exact starting sprocket hole of frame 1. I don't know how you would do that.GeorgesGiralt said:Eight holes make an image on 135/36 film.... So if you can count well in the dark, you will not loose anything.
john_s said:....as long as you know the exact starting sprocket hole of frame 1. I don't know how you would do that.
df cardwell said:Morten
Is this NEW APX 400 ( post 2003 ) ?
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