Film Notches

[Mahler_one]

I hate to bother people here. However, I have done goggle searches, and checked sheet film notch codes and I still can't figure out which film is in some holders that I purchased with a camera a few years back. There are 3 sharp "V"s punched out without any other markings. I believe the film is color, but I am not sure which one. Thanks for any help.

Ed

 

[removed account4]

hi ed

doesn't sound like color film, but tri x ...--v-v-v------

good luck!

john

 

[Mahler_one]

John, I looked at that code, but note that TriX has a "u" to the right of the three v's, and the film I have simply has the v-v-v-. TriX appears to be, v-v-v- U ( obviously not a "U" but you get the idea I think...

Thanks.

Ed

 

[Mahler_one]

Here John, take a look at Trix....

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f3/f3.jhtml

 

[Bruce Watson]

If it's three "V"s, it's Tri-X. I went through dozens of boxes of 5x4 TXT-4164, and that's the notch code for that film. I suspect that the three "V"s plus the "U" is the newer (current) version of Tri-X.

Kodak has a history of changing notch codes when they make a major change to the emulsion. The referenced Kodak Tech. Pub. on notch codes doesn't have the current notch code for TMY-2, which is a single "V" by itself. I'm just sayin'...

 

[removed account4]

hi mahler one

like bruce said ...
the older tri x emulsion was just -v-v-v---

have fun!
john

 

[Mahler_one]

Thanks to all...yes, after doing some more digging around with goggle, I have discovered that Kodak DOES change their notch codes. I had to go to a previous Darkroom Datiguide to get the information...what a great resource the APUG really is.

Bruce...I'm probably not going to use this film ( not sure it's available in 5x7 ), but I did want to take a few photographs to get used to handling a 5x7 back on a Deardorff. I use the BTZS method with a Jobo expert tank at 75 degrees, DDX 1:9. Do you have any suggestions for a developing time...just intend to do a few sheets, but would be nice to be reasonably close without going through film curves, etc. Just standard SBR of 7 should be adequate.


Ed

 

[removed account4]

glad i could help ed!

i use old outdated film, i hate to admit i didn't know what
the notch codes to tri x or tmx or tmy were post 2001

i don't use your ddx or btzs methods
just sheets shuffled in trays .. and i usually over expose by 1 stop and over-develop (by inspection) ...
if you can sacrifice a few sheets and over process by 15 % to start with ...
that is what i originally did ... you will probably be happy ... 5x7 sheets of tri x make beautiful negatives!

 

[Bruce Watson]

Bruce...I'm probably not going to use this film ( not sure it's available in 5x7 ), but I did want to take a few photographs to get used to handling a 5x7 back on a Deardorff. I use the BTZS method with a Jobo expert tank at 75 degrees, DDX 1:9. Do you have any suggestions for a developing time...just intend to do a few sheets, but would be nice to be reasonably close without going through film curves, etc. Just standard SBR of 7 should be adequate.

I'd give it to you if I could, but I've never used DDX. Given that DDX is a phenidone-hydroquinone developer, and Tri-X is a long-toe film, you might want to drop down from ISO 320, maybe to an EI of 250 or 200. That should give you good odds of getting enough exposure to get good shadow detail. Then you might want to develop to the suggested times in the Dead Link Removed It won't be spot on (might be a little long resulting in a little bit more contrast than optimum given the extra bit of exposure), but it won't be totally off either. Certainly good enough for testing purposes. And if you develop one sheet at a time you can make time adjustments as you go.

Alternatively the Massive Development Chart might have reasonable development times for this combination.

I note that neither of these sources quote for 1+9; they only list 1+4.

 

[Mahler_one]

Ah Bruce...develop by inspection! I just was at a Michael and Paul work-shop where developing by inspection was demonstrated. Are you using Pyro and a green safe light?

And thanks to you and John for the developing suggestions! That long toe might come in handy if one want to use Azo and Amidol, and the higher contrast as well!

Ed