Film hangers for development

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colrehogan

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Does anyone still use film hangers for development? I have a source of many 4x5 (at least 100) and some 5x7 film hangers (didn't count these, but there weren't as many) locally. I believe that the guy will part with them, but he doesn't know what they are worth and neither do I. Any idea?

The guy's late father had a studio/darkroom and now the guy wants to clear the space for other things.
 

Roger Hicks

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Scrap metal value, basically. Double it because they're not going to be scrapped... Yes, you could probably get $1 each or even $10 each from someone who REALLY wanted them -- but there won't be many of those.

Cheers,

R.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Randy's assessment seems about right to me. It's still a very viable method of processing sheet film, particularly if you shoot a good quantity of film and use replenishable chemistry.
 

ann

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we ue hangers in our student lab and that is all i use for myself.
 

PHOTOTONE

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I use hangers for 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 in my 3.5 gallon deep tanks. A fine method of developing, once you learn how to agitate properly to not get surge marks. Hangers last forever, though. I have all I need in those sizes.
 

Roger Hicks

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Sorry, perhaps I should add that I've used them myself and that they would be my automatic choice if I did a LOT of LF processing (with replenished D76 or D19). What I was really thinking in my last post is that barring the effort of listing them on e-bay and selling them in penny numbers (with the associated hassles of packing and shipping), their value in their current location is little more than scrap metal. If I wanted them I might offer him $50 the lot, but in the absence of any real local competitive market, they're worth whatever you can agree. In his situation I might give them to you in return for your promising to make a donation to charity. It's just that 'worth' doesn't have much meaning in this situation.

Cheers,

R.
 

pnance

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I've tried tray processing, and went to hangers for 4x5s. I find its easier, and sometimes I don't even get my hands wet.

Incidently, I hardly ever have more than 6 sheets to do, so I cut up some cardboard and made a quart tank for 4x5 hangers. Works great. Coated with expoxy.
 

Konical

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Good Evening, Diane,

Are any of the hangers the 8 x 10 type which is divided for four 4 x 5 sheets?

Konical
 

Curt

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Yes I use them, I have plenty in 2x3, 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 along with the hard rubber tanks, about six in each format. I find them easy and pleasant to use. I was taught this at Brooks Institute as it was the required method for developing film at the time. We were instructed to remove the clip on top so streaking wouldn't occur but I didn't have any problems. I don't use violent agitation. Get one and try it, that way you can see if it is for you. Try the tray method with a half dozen sheets also and compare. Semi stand in a tray?
 
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colrehogan

colrehogan

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Yes I use them, I have plenty in 2x3, 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 along with the hard rubber tanks, about six in each format. I find them easy and pleasant to use. I was taught this at Brooks Institute as it was the required method for developing film at the time. We were instructed to remove the clip on top so streaking wouldn't occur but I didn't have any problems. I don't use violent agitation. Get one and try it, that way you can see if it is for you. Try the tray method with a half dozen sheets also and compare. Semi stand in a tray?

Hi Curt,
I use Jobo expert tanks for all my developing since I don't have a darkroom.

Diane
 

TheFlyingCamera

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I've used them and have a bunch for when I want to do large quantities of film and/or want to do semi-stand development. I have yet to master the technique to avoid surge marks, so I rarely use them. I've gone over to the Jobo Expert drum system. I'd offer him something in the neighborhood of $1 each, if you want to give them a try at some point. They do last forever so long as you don't throw them on the floor and stamp up and down on them.
 
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Scrap metal value, basically. Double it because they're not going to be scrapped... Yes, you could probably get $1 each or even $10 each from someone who REALLY wanted them -- but there won't be many of those.

Cheers,

R.

Many have forgot the fact that gaseous burst agitation using the Kodak 4A hangers worked like a champ on the commercial side for many years. No motors, gears or sealed tanks to deal with. The hangup for individuals has been the large size of tanks. I am testing a line of smaller tanks for gaseous burst applications and should have some news on this subject shortly. When JOBO started to show mix signals in the marketplace I felt it prudent to look for alternatives.

Cheers!
 

removed account4

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It takes a concerted effort to damage stainless steel.

they might not have been 'damaged', but they might not work right ...

mixed in with a "lot" i bought i had one or 2 that gave me trouble ..
i could never ID them, and i could never figure out why they were doing
what they were doing, but they marked my film--- sides+top+bottom - with a straight line.

i had been processing film in hangers for close to 8 years
when this happened - no surge marks, no problems ...

but i haven't used them since ... and i would rather process them
in hangers then in trays, or in a tube that goes round'n'round :sad:

--john
 

Roger Hicks

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Many have forgot the fact that gaseous burst agitation using the Kodak 4A hangers worked like a champ on the commercial side for many years. No motors, gears or sealed tanks to deal with. The hangup for individuals has been the large size of tanks. I am testing a line of smaller tanks for gaseous burst applications and should have some news on this subject shortly. When JOBO started to show mix signals in the marketplace I felt it prudent to look for alternatives.

Cheers!
Dear Michael,

I am sure many people will be extremely interested in this. How hard is nitrogen to buy/plumb in? I assume you use manual control of the gas bursts?

Cheers,

R.
 
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Dear Michael,

I am sure many people will be extremely interested in this. How hard is nitrogen to buy/plumb in? I assume you use manual control of the gas bursts?

Cheers,

R.

Roger:

I have spent considerable time working with this process and recently finished writing a comprehensive article on "Gaseous Burst Agitation" that I am in the process of getting published possibly in the next edition of View Camera. In it I cover all of the bases from the nuances of the process, vendors, equipment and costs. If you can be a bit patient I feel that this information will be available shortly.

Cheers!
 

Roger Hicks

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Roger:

I have spent considerable time working with this process and recently finished writing a comprehensive article on "Gaseous Burst Agitation" that I am in the process of getting published possibly in the next edition of View Camera. In it I cover all of the bases from the nuances of the process, vendors, equipment and costs. If you can be a bit patient I feel that this information will be available shortly.

Cheers!
Dear Michael,

Excellent! Thanks.

Cheers,

R.
 

Harrigan

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Many have forgot the fact that gaseous burst agitation using the Kodak 4A hangers worked like a champ on the commercial side for many years. No motors, gears or sealed tanks to deal with. The hangup for individuals has been the large size of tanks. I am testing a line of smaller tanks for gaseous burst applications and should have some news on this subject shortly. When JOBO started to show mix signals in the marketplace I felt it prudent to look for alternatives.

Cheers!


I ran a nitro burst line at a lab in Rochester for a while running d76-R and Tmax RS developers and it was a really great way to go for large quanity processing. However you do still need to agitate the hangers by hand a little to remove the surge marks or whatever you call the density lines you can get on the film edges that contact the metal. Our tanks ran only a gallon or two of solution but for me at home this is still a lot of chems even if I run film once per week. Also as I remember buying nitrogen in small quanities was a real problem even for the lab, however a little goes a long way. Our set up was also adjustable in terms of controlling the number of bursts per minute etc and was pretty much all automatic other than having to do some additional hand agitations every couple of minutes. If running a lot of film this is THE way to do it IMO.
 
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I ran a nitro burst line at a lab in Rochester for a while running d76-R and Tmax RS developers and it was a really great way to go for large quanity processing. However you do still need to agitate the hangers by hand a little to remove the surge marks or whatever you call the density lines you can get on the film edges that contact the metal. Our tanks ran only a gallon or two of solution but for me at home this is still a lot of chems even if I run film once per week. Also as I remember buying nitrogen in small quanities was a real problem even for the lab, however a little goes a long way. Our set up was also adjustable in terms of controlling the number of bursts per minute etc and was pretty much all automatic other than having to do some additional hand agitations every couple of minutes. If running a lot of film this is THE way to do it IMO.

I experienced no density lines or surge marks and never touched the hangers at any time during the gaseous burst testing. I cover all of these variables as well as the costs in the article. Stay tuned.

Cheers!
 
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I've used hangers in 4x5 and 8x10 for minimal agitation with Pyrocat HD. The results have been fine. No surge marks. Prpoer agitation is the key. Great with fragile films like Efke 25/100. Try it out it is easy.

Jim
 

PHOTOTONE

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Dear Michael,

I am sure many people will be extremely interested in this. How hard is nitrogen to buy/plumb in? I assume you use manual control of the gas bursts?

Cheers,

R.

I have been processing sheet film in 3.5 gallon tanks for 30 years with gaseous burst agitation, although I only use gaseous (Nitrogen) burst agitation for color materials, not b/w.

In the United States, one gets bottles of Nitrogen gas from Welding Gas supply vendors. They usually deliver. Generally speaking one rents the cylinder (gas bottle) and pay for the gas. When you use it up, they exchange the cylinder for a full one. You can also purchase the cylinder, but when it comes time for more gas, they still exchange the cylinder, it is just that you have no rental charges. Nitrogen is an "inert" gas (non-flammable), therefore does not have the same restrictions on it that some other gases do.

I built a control panel consisting of a greylab timer for overall process timing, plugged into this is another industrial timer that makes one revolution per minute, around the circumference of this timing wheel are tabs you can move in or out. In the positions where the tabs are out, they press on a microswitch. Thus you can set any interval of "on" for the microswitch during a 60 second cycle. The microswitch sends power to a 110v solenoid air valve that opens and shuts the gas from the processing line. Of course you absolutely must have a gas regulator on the cylinder, from which you regulate the pressure down to just a very few ounces. Well, when you turn on the greylab timer, it starts timing the processing step, and in addition sends power to the 60 sec programmable timer which starts the burst cycles of nitrogen to the tank. I have wired an override switch across the contacts of the microswitch in the timer, so as to give me the option of continuous burst for initial agitation.

The plenums that bubble gas up thru the chemistry are just made from some salvage stainless steel tubing bent into a squiggly multiple "S" shape in the bottom of each tank, with a long straight bend up and out of the tank at a corner. From this you can attach a hose to the gas supply. The stainless tubing has little holes drilled on the bottom side of the squiggly "S" shape on the bottom of the tank.

This is the simplest description I can give of my set up. Mine is actually a little bit more complicated because I can also send compressed air thru the same system for the aeriation of the bleach and fix steps of E-6 and C-41, so there is some additional duplication of parts not needed if you are just considering using gaseous burst for b/w processing.
 

PHOTOTONE

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I should add to my post above, that you can find a lot of the items you need for this used. Also, the stainless steel tubes you make your gas plenums from..you should crimp the end of the tube so the gas comes out of the holes you have drilled, not the end. This would be obvious, I would think.
 
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