Film for 7x17

I know this question has been asked in the past, and I have perused the archives, but still feel my question is not fully answered. I have the opportunity to experiment briefly with Richard Ritter's 7x17 camera at the end of the month. Which film available for immediate delivery should I get for 7x17? I will be doing landscapes but would appreciate some speed and decent reciprocity characteristics due to the apertures necessary. My usual film is FP4+ for 4x5 and 5x7, and HP5+ for 8x10. I do want a film that would withstand my fumbling with tray develpment or possibly one amenable to semistand development with dilute Rodinal or HC110 or other developer (no pyro please).

The film I would have opted for is HP5+ which was available as part of Ilford's ULF special run but does not seem to be in stock at least with JandC, Hunt's or Calumet. It is my standard film when shooting 8x10, and I do occasionally use it for 4x5 and 5x7 when I want speed. I use it even more commonly in 35 mm and 120 size. Does anybody know of any vendor who has some in stock for immediate delivery?

TMY (Tmax 400)? Never really used the film. Expensive per sheet cost, though the availability of a 10 sheet box is attractive.

Efke PL 100. Nice tonality, but it tests and behaves for me as a 50 speed film (at least in Rodinal 1:50). Reciprocity is also less than ideal. The killer for me however is the softness of the emulsion. I have managed to scratch the film in the past even when developing 4x5 in a daylight tank. My tray development technique leaves a lot to be desired.

JandC 200. I have used a few sheets of Berger 200 when doing 4x10 since till recently this was the only film precut as 4x10. Shot it at EI 100. Is it the same film?

Berger 200. Is it same as JandC 200? Availability for immediate delivery?

JandC 400. Is it Forte 400? What EI do people shoot it at? Is the emulsion soft or the film delicate?

I am leaning towards either TMY 400, or JandC 400 film. Would definitely however select HP5+ if any vendor has some for immediate delivery.

Comments or suggestions welcome.

Thanks.

Sincerely,

Hany.

J&C 200, 400, Adox 100 and TMax 400 are all in stock.

The View Camera Store (480) 767-7105 may have some Ilford in stock. They bought quite a bit on the last order, and they may have some left.

I use tubes for my 8X10 & plan to do the same for 7X17. The tubes are made from grey conduit pipe; and I've used them with soft-emulsion films such as Efke 100 with no problem.

I like Tmax 400 for my 8x10 and 7x17 negatives. These are contact printed on Azo and I like the fast speed, excellent reciprocity and long straight line. I tray develop in Pyrocat HD for 16.5 minutes @ 68 degrees. This combination provides the negative density necessary to contact print on the Canadian Grade 2 Azo.

If you will be attending the Fine Focus Workshops Fall Foliage workshop at the end of the month, I look forward to meeting you. I will bring examples for you to review (8x10)....I hope Richard will have my 7x17 camera done by the end of this month...I have my fingers crossed....we'll see.

John

I second the suggestion of Tmax 400 and Pyrocat HD - I use this film with my 12x20 camera and have had great results.

Adox 100 and J and C 400.....no prob with scratches...I havent tried the tubes yet but will soon....I do one in a tray at a time....just plod along listening to Coltrane or Vivaldi...

Dave Wooten said:

Adox 100 and J and C 400.....no prob with scratches...I havent tried the tubes yet but will soon....I do one in a tray at a time....just plod along listening to Coltrane or Vivaldi...

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What EI do you meter for with JandC 400? Am I right in figuring it is Forte 400? What developer do you use for the JandC 400 (or for that matter Efke/Adox 100)?

Thanks.

Sincerely,

Hany.

doughowk said:

I use tubes for my 8X10 & plan to do the same for 7X17. The tubes are made from grey conduit pipe; and I've used them with soft-emulsion films such as Efke 100 with no problem.

Click to expand...

Are you using the tubes with rotary (continuous) development? If so, you might consider using the old Beseler or Unicolor 16X20 print drums on a motor base. You can develop two sheets at a time with these drums, with virtually no risk of damaging the film.

The Unicolor drums have built in dividers, whereas the Beseler has small round plastic tubes that you insert to divide the drum. I prefer the Beseler drums because they don't leak, a major problem with many of the older Unicolor drums. However, you really need the tube dividers with the Besler drums.

To develop, just pour in the developer and start the motor. To avoid bromide drag lift the drum off the motor base every minute or two minutes, depending on total time of development, and give the drum a good up and down agitation.

Sandy

Thanks, Sandy, for the advice, especially as concerns agitation. Haven't noticed any Bromide drag -streaks; but it may become a problem once I start developing 7X17. I use a Unicolor motor, hang the grey conduit tube in a sling above the motor (otherwise it walks off the motor), and the agitation is in one direction with a pause during reverse cycle - for some reason can't get the tube to go in reverse ;-(

I have used jandc 400; ekfe 100 (I tray develop with no problem, but am very careful. Jobo drum processing works well too); jandc 200 I have also had nice results.....All in pyro hd with great results, sorry. I own some tmax and have not yet tried it, but will soon.

JandC 400 I shoot at 320/400 - pyro hd 1:1:100 about 9 min. at 72 degrees. I do DBI.

I print on AZO grades 2 and 3.