film for 16x20 enlargements?

mps · Dec 5, 2006

Any recommendations for a 35mm film to be printed 16x20? I primarily shoot Tmax 400>HP5>Tmax 100. Thanks.

PHOTOTONE · Dec 5, 2006

In general, you have to accept that a 16x20 from 35mm will show "some" grain, and if you consider this, the films you already use can produce very nice 16x20 prints. I have gone much bigger than 16x20 with good results from many 35mm negatives. It really depends on the subject matter.

Konical · Dec 5, 2006

Good Afternoon,

For a general purpose film, it will be hard to beat the T-100 you indicate you're already using or one of similar type such as Acros or Delta. About the only thing finer-grained is the now hard-to-find Tech Pan. If you move up to MF, life gets a lot easier!

Konical

MikeSeb · Dec 5, 2006

One more pile-on vote for the 100 speed new-emulsion films: TMax or Delta.

Efke 25 or 50 are also very nice, especially the latter; but quality control on these films is said to be uneven and their emulsions are said to be easily damaged--not my consistent experience though.

JBrunner · Dec 5, 2006

My experience with the Efke/Adox films in sheet formats, is that they are a softer emulsion when wet, but if due care is exercised, they are fine. You just cant handle them poorly. I have never had any QC issue with them. They have a very pleasing grain texture, when printed big enough, or processed to show it. A sort of creaminess to the grain, a very pleasant vintage feel, IMO.

jim appleyard · Dec 5, 2006

You already know what T-Max 100 can do for you, but you can also try Ilford's Pan-F and Efke's 25.

mps · Dec 5, 2006

Thanks for the input. I have never enlarged to 16 x 20 before so I look foward to the results. Based on your responses, I will concentrate more on finding a "good" negative rather than on film type.

fhovie · Dec 5, 2006

PanF 50 in XTOL

pgomena · Dec 5, 2006

You didn't mention which developer you are using. It makes a difference. X-tol and D-76 (both undiluted) offer solvent properties to help soften grain. Microdol-X is another. I think Ilford's equivalent is Perceptol. I don't use these particular developers, and I've not used any of them with T-Max 100, but if you have time to experiment, it may help a great deal. Try to search threads on this forum as a starting point. (Also note that some of these developers may lower your film speed significantly.)

Peter Gomena

mps · Dec 5, 2006

pgomena said:
You didn't mention which developer you are using. It makes a difference. X-tol and D-76 (both undiluted) offer solvent properties to help soften grain. Microdol-X is another. I think Ilford's equivalent is Perceptol. I don't use these particular developers, and I've not used any of them with T-Max 100, but if you have time to experiment, it may help a great deal. Try to search threads on this forum as a starting point. (Also note that some of these developers may lower your film speed significantly.)

Peter Gomena

Being a beginner, I have only used D76 at 1:1 and more recently Ilford DDX. I am inexperienced printing above 8x10 but don't mind grain. I just started using HP5 in DDX and really like this combo. I'll do a search on developers....thanks.

Jim Jones · Dec 6, 2006

T-Max is a fine film, capable of decent 16x20s. Exposure and development for best results are critical. For an important shot I bracket at exposure indexes of 25, 50, and 100. Usually the exposure at 50 prints best. Sometimes, for more shadow contrast, 25 is better. Grain increases rapidly with overdevelopment. With adequate exposure, you can cut development slightly. I've used T-Max developer for decades, and haven't experimented with the many alternatives.

fhovie · Dec 6, 2006

XTOL is an amazing developer. Full strength, it is a solvent developer that can really smooth out the grain. It is a very sharp developer at 1:3. XTOL does not create the mackie lines that can be created with other developers - It develops the grains with great sharpness though and brings out the natural accutance that the film can make. I would not call it a high definition developer but it is capable of very high resolution. If I was going to do 16x20 from 35mm - PanF 50 ot TMAX 100 in XTOL full strength.

Ole · Dec 6, 2006

I've been making 9.5x12" prints from Maco/Rollei IR 820/400, developed in Rodinal 1:25 with continuous agitation the last week. I'm very, very surprised at how fine and tight the grain is. It has held out well in 12x16 enlargements from about 3/4 of a 35mm negative, so if you want a fast film it's worth a try. Remember that you don't need to use an IR filter - it's a quite ordinary panchromatic film without.

TheFlyingCamera · Dec 6, 2006

Make your life very simple- try the T400 CN chromogenic b/w film. The stuff you take in to the minilab to have souped in C-41 chemistry. Shoot it at 100. You'll get negs dense enough to stop cosmic rays, but you'll have beautiful, grainless enlargements up to 16x20, and maybe even beyond- can't say because I've never tried printing bigger than that since my darkroom is space limited.

film for 16x20 enlargements?

mps

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