In addition, I use a slightly unusual procedure for fixing film, which is well suited to those who have small spaces, and temporary darkrooms, so I thought I would share that as well.
MATT KING’S PROCEDURE FOR FIXING FILM
I have very limited storage space, and my darkroom is temporary. For that reason, I take steps to minimize the storage space used. To that end, I use liquid chemicals, including fixer, and try to use no more than two moderately sized bottles (concentrate and working solution) for chemicals that are re-used (such as fixer).
For fixer, I’ve used Ilford Rapid Fixer, Ilford Hypam and, currently and in the past, Kodak Rapid Fix. I don’t add the hardener to the Kodak Rapid Fix. I’m currently using a 1.25 litre bottle of 1+4 working solution Kodak Fixer. Here is what I do:
1) I keep one bottle for my film fixer - it is large enough to run at least two separate batches of film at the same time;
2) a) I pour one batch of fixer into my film developing tank at the start of the fixing stage, and agitate normally (in my case, on a rotary agitator); and
b) at the same time, I do a clip test with T-Max film;
3) When the clip has cleared, I dump the first fixer into a graduate, and pour the second batch into the tank. I then fix for the same time as the first run, but this time in the somewhat fresher fixer;
4) After use, all the fixer goes back into the bottle - although I will consider filtering it if necessary.
I continue to use that fixer until the earlier of:
a) I have fixed enough film to have reached 2/3 of the manufacturer's recommended capacity for that volume; or
b) the clearing time reaches twice what the starting clearing time was,
at which time I take it over to friends' place, where they are reclaiming silver from their fixer (they have more space, and use more fixer).
I put masking tape on the bottle, and mark it with the initial clearing time and a "/" for each roll fixed.
If I had more room, I would use two separate bottles, and the two bath fixing regime.