Hi thank you! It seems in one of my frames i can barely make an image out of the underpass I was shooting. I did try out a lens today ive never used before.Welcome to Photrio.
It looks to me like like your camera's shutter is staying open too long, or the aperture is open too much.
Are there images under the over-exposure in the frames, or is it all blur?
If the latter, I would suspect the shutter.
Have you other lenses you can try, in order to rule out the shutter in the lens you used?
Yeah, my light meter told me f11 and my shutter to be at 1/400. I was shooting with ektar 100 at around 5:30 pm.As has been suggested, it appears to be a camera problem, not a processing one. If it was a processing problem then your frame numbers/edge markings wouldn't be so clear.
Can you remember what exposure you used, for say, the underpass shot? The shutter speed and the aperture?
From viewing your underpass frame, it would appear to me that the negative is grossly over-exposed. It could be a combination of the lens not stopping down and/or the shutter firing slower than the speed selected.
Im actually not familiar with this camera. I've had it for about a week now. I noticed the lens I'm using from the shoot the shutter would stay open. But I unknowingly flipped this switch when shooting? But messing with the camera now it seems that switch is causing my camera to expose until i trigger the next frame? Im pretty sure that might be the issue? Putting the switch back revealing the "N", is making the camera shutter act normal?Are you fully familiar with the handling of your new camera yet? It took me a while to turn this camera into a reliable work horse. Most likely this was either defective hardware or operator error, allow me to ask a few random questions:
- If you remove the film magazine and put the magazine control lever to M, then set an exposure to one second and aperture two or three stops closed down: if you trigger an exposure, you should see the mirror going up, revealing the lens. You should be able to observe, how the shutter opens and closes, and you should see the aperture, while the shutter is open.
- If the battery of an RZ67 is about to run out of juice, the camera will torment your soul with the strangest misbehavior. Make sure, that you have a reasonably fresh battery in your RZ67.
That definitely is the issue! Rookie mistakes smhLooks like you were using it in "T" mode - i.e. the shutter stays open until you move the switch or cock the camera and advance the film or (and you would need to ask the users of an RZ about this) trigger the electromagnetic release again.
That function is used for long time exposures.
I think the T setting is your problem. (It is similar to B on a 35mm camera) It would very much overexpose the negative and cause image blur due to camera movement.
I am interested in your underpass lightmeter reading. F11 1/400sec for ISO100 film seems to be a very bright scene. (maybe my part of the world is not as bright!)
Could it be a blix failure? Is your blix fresh? I believe blix does not last very long although longer than the developer. If you have access to bleach and fixer (yes separate bleach and fix) chemicals just bleach and fix the negatives one more time. You can try a frame or two to see if it makes a difference to the negative.[/QUOTE
I dont think its that old? I probably used about 7 rolls of film with this bottle of blix so far.
The negative looks too dark. The fix looks incomplete to me.
The edge markings are fine. His developer and blix are OK.
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