Film / Developer Combinations

[belalan]

Hi all
My question.....What are your best film / developer combination's ?

I just finished shooting (my very first ever) 6 sheets of 4x5. I shot HP5+ at 400 ASA. After developing the lot in a day tank with Ilfosol 3 I found I was really disappointed with the final results. The images lack contrast and seem really drab. The images were taken with a Crown Graflex and a Schneider Xenar 135,
Now I realize it could be the light, the developing, the scan........but I need to start somewhere.

Attached are some examples......

Thanks
Alan Bell

 

[Ian Grant]

Well I'm just printing HP5 developed in Pyrocat HD, great combination, but then so are Delta 100 & 400 as well as Adox/EFKE PL25 in Pyrocat.

In fact the images sat washing were made with a Crown Graphic and 1950's CZJ 150mm Tessar or a modern Xenar and the combination is capapble of first rate results, so maybe you need to do a film EI/Dev time test. There's a thread about this at the moment.

Also you may have a light leak somewhere, check the bellows. See white marks left and top - same place on both negatives.

Ian

 

[Bob-D659]

Check your tank for light leaks as well, on the first image you posted, you can see a hard edge where something blocked the leaking light from hitting the film. The second has it as well, and maybe what appears as some air bubbles right on that hard line as well, but it could just be really dark areas in the branches.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Alan

Nothing wrong with your material selection. As Ian and Bob have pointed out, the problem is closer to home.

 

[belalan]

Hi

Here are images from the same batch, shot with the same camera and developed in the same group, these have ghosts too.

Alan

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Well I'm just printing HP5 developed in Pyrocat HD, great combination, but then so are Delta 100 & 400 as well as Adox/EFKE PL25 in Pyrocat.

In fact the images sat washing were made with a Crown Graphic and 1950's CZJ 150mm Tessar or a modern Xenar and the combination is capapble of first rate results, so maybe you need to do a film EI/Dev time test. There's a thread about this at the moment.

Also you may have a light leak somewhere, check the bellows. See white marks left and top - same place on both negatives.

Ian

Ian,

Did you use HP5 Plus out of choice or preference over T-Max 400 (assuming a 4x5" negative)?

Tom

 

[belalan]

Hi Tom

To be honest, when I purchased the box of film, I didn't even know how to load the holders. I just asked for a speed of 400. I haven't a clue what constitutes a good film or a bad one in this format. Suggestions are always accepted.

Alan

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Alan,

HP5 Plus will tend to give lower contrast results compared to FP4 Plus or Delta 100. Have you printed the negatives optically?

Tom

 

[belalan]

Hi Tom

No, I don't have a darkroom so what I do is process the film and then scan it.
Which film gives better contrast, HP4 or Delta 100 ?
BTW< thanks to all who have provided answers, much appreciated

Alan

 

[Ian Grant]

Ian,

Did you use HP5 Plus out of choice or preference over T-Max 400 (assuming a 4x5" negative)?

Tom

It was a case of luck, someone offering 2 boxes of 100 sheets each of HP5+ on the large Format forum at a ridiculously low price..

I've switched to Ilford films where possible, I'd prefer Delta 400 in LF but it's not made but I'm extremely pleased with the results with HP5 so will stick with it for all my hand-held 5x4 work.

It seems to give great tonality in Pyrocat, and stains well so contrast is excellent as well as fine detail.

Ian

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

Tmax 100 in D-76 1+1 is beautiful. Tmax400 in D-76 1+1 is also.

http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/developing.php <-- here is a chart of all the film and developer combinations I have tested and used with the correct EI and developing time for normal and N-1 developing.

 

[phaedrus]

Lately, I tend to develop every b&w film in X-TOL. Fuji Acros, TMY-2, Fuji Neopan 1600 and the last remaining HIEs come out to my liking.

 

[marco.taje]

Alan,

apart from the ghosting issues, there seems to be nothing wrong with the tonality.. To me, the process only needs some exposure and developing tuning. The first two images looked like they were missing highlights completely.. But the one with the chair was definitely OK, the higher lights on the chair itself brought the overall contrast up to pleasant levels. Just need a bit of tuning, as I said, you're doing good!

 

[belalan]

Marco
Thanks for the encouraging words. They come just at the right time. I will keep trying
Alan

 

[P C Headland]

As others have pointed out, you seem to have a light leak somewhere. You need to sort that out first, before you go trying to adjust anything else. Check the bellows for pinholes, check your darkslides, and make sure you seat the darkslide properly in the camera.

I think if you sort the light leak, you'll find the other issues disappear.

 

[belalan]

I'll shoot off some more shots with different film. I have a suspicion where the light leak was.

 

[George Collier]

Aside from the leak (light areas bordered by hard edges - consistent, so I would say while in the holder, maybe while in the camera..)
But the density and contrast look like they might be ok, but no can tell till you print on your chosen paper.
The scans can be misleading - Marco points out highlight problems, which they look like, but could be scanner settings.
Solve the leak issue, then print on paper in a darkroom.

 

[belalan]

One question, how do I test the holders for light leaks ? Is there a procedure to follow ?
Thanks
Alan

 

[PhotoGizmo]

What I do is find a darkened room, whether or not it is a dark room or not, and a flashlight. Open up the film back, or groundglass in your case, and stick your face in the back of the camera. Take the flashlight and run it around the outside of the fully extended bellows and look for light leaks (don't forget to turn the flashlight on of course) Light leaks will turn up. As for looking at the film holder, take a sheet of film and load it in the holder, remembering the orientation of the film in the holder. Let it sit in direct sunlight for a minute or two and process it. If the film sheet turns out clear, you have no leaks in the filmholder. If you establish that the bellows is light tight and the film holder doesn't leak, put a loaded holder in the camera and hold the camera/holder assembly in daylight for a few minutes, making sure that daylight hits all surfaces of the camera.

If you have a leak, you'll find it that way. (I suspect the holder myself, judging by your prints.)