I have to say, the Nikon FM3A (all black), Leica R5 and the Contax S2b take my pick for best looking slr cameras... maybe add one of those to my long term wishlist as they a pretty expensive (the Leica is surprisingly cheap, but as always, they get you with the lens cost).
The Nikon FG looks really good! Its super cheap and for 50.00 I could get a really nice working copy (quick search on eBay). I think this may be the one!
One last request! Can anyone point me to a good (and cheap) Nikon 24/28mm (large aperture, >= f2.8) on eBay (I prefer buy-it now or one where the auction is ending soon)? I see a few lenses, but I can't tell which lenses are for modern Nikons and which are for old SLR cameras. I know with Minolta you look for MC/MD, same thing for Canon. Not sure about Nikon though. If I can find a good lens for Nikon, I'll go with the FG!
Thanks for all the help guys and the overwhelmingly warm welcome to APUG!
Although there is not much size difference between the FG (490g), F3 (760g) and FM3A (570g), there is a substantial weight difference between them. The other Nikons (FE, FE2, FM, FM2, FA) are similar in size and weight.
Sorry, Les, but your police line-up shot is a bit misleading. Apart from the apparently slight weight difference, the FG really is a tiny camera compared to the FM/FE variants and the F3.
but considering I have to buy audio equipment to conduct interviews (you think photography is expensive? Not compared to video and audio equipment it isn't), so overall, wherever I can save some money, I'll take that route (eBay - FTW!)..
Wow ... you own all those cameras?
Sorry, Les, but your police line-up shot is a bit misleading. Apart from the apparently slight weight difference, the FG really is a tiny camera compared to the FM/FE variants and the F3.
Not sure if I should start a new thread, but this is sorta related!
When metering with an old SLR, if the meter indicator is very simple, such as a green dot that lights up when 18% grey is properly exposed, but I know that my scene is say 1 stop above or below 18% grey, could I turn the ISO knob to a lower ISO (for 1 stop above 18%) or a higher ISO (for 1 stop above 18%) when metering additional similar scenes (rather than having to adjust my shutter speed/aperture to hit 18% grey and then adjusting to 1 stop below or above that)? Not sure if I'm clear (probably not), but hopefully I am.
The real small Nikon is the EM
Not sure if I should start a new thread, but this is sorta related!
When metering with an old SLR, if the meter indicator is very simple, such as a green dot that lights up when 18% grey is properly exposed, but I know that my scene is say 1 stop above or below 18% grey, could I turn the ISO knob to a lower ISO (for 1 stop above 18%) or a higher ISO (for 1 stop above 18%) when metering additional similar scenes (rather than having to adjust my shutter speed/aperture to hit 18% grey and then adjusting to 1 stop below or above that)? Not sure if I'm clear (probably not), but hopefully I am.
Also, say I decide to meter something that is 2 stop above 18% grey as 18% grey, do I need to do any special adjustments when developing and would I notice any ill effects such as additional grain?
Also, what good books/videos can you guys recommend that covers the gamut of colour film photography? I plan to eventually develop my own C41 film, and I already have most of the equipment required (constant temperature bath, etc.). I also want to get into colour printing of film.
With a manual camera that the meter only valid at the 0 setting I always zero it (center the needle, the 0 led light up etc..) and then change the shutter speed and/or aperture to increase of decrease exposure. I found using the exposure compensation dial is very inconvenient besides most manual cameras don't have the exposure compensation setting.
I thought these two were the same basic platform, with the FG having less no-choice automation. :confused:
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