Film and developer combo. Your choices are...

baachitraka · Oct 20, 2011

My choices are...

PanF+ & Rodinal 1+100 (5ml + 500ml) full-stand. After reading shaping tone curve with rodinal article I will go with 1+50 with minimal agitation.

Also, I am happy with HP5+ @ Atomal 49 1+1 for 10mins.

Currently I am picking up the pieces to build the darkroom and this question would have been more appropriate in combo with paper but...

VaryaV · Oct 20, 2011

HP5+/D3200 - DDX

Efke50/Rodinal 1:50

1xOm2MD, 1xOM2s, 1xOM2n...Zuiko 80mmf4 macro w/bellows/M645

removed account4 · Oct 20, 2011

my favorite is old expired ( 5-7 years out of date )
tmy or tri x sheet film stand developed in
instant coffee, spiked with washing soda, vit c and a splash of 1+ year old ansco 130 ...
processed until it is bullet proof
then contact printed on ilford fbmg ( or rc ) using a 300watt flood light .. processed in
expired ansco 130 dilute 1:2ish

Rick A · Oct 20, 2011

CHS art films, especially iso 25, any format, in Pyrocat-HD. Followed by TMY shot at 200 developed in Rodinal 1+50 any format, mostly 4x5 though.

baachitraka · Oct 20, 2011

It may be familiar for many but I find this useful article on developing times.

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Times/times.html

Ian Grant · Oct 20, 2011

Delta 100 & 400, also HP5 developed in Pyrocat HD, also Fomapan 100 & 200 and EFKE 25 in Pyrocat.

Alternatively Rodinal or Xtol but the Pyrocat negatives are slightly easier to print

Ian

VaryaV · Oct 20, 2011

Ian Grant said:
Delta 100 & 400, also HP5 developed in Pyrocat HD, also Fomapan 100 & 200 and EFKE 25 in Pyrocat.

Alternatively Rodinal or Xtol but the Pyrocat negatives are slightly easier to print

Ian

I have always wanted to try Pyrocat HD

baachitraka · Oct 20, 2011

@Michael, I was very beginner at that time and I really do not know which developer to pick.

removed account4 · Oct 20, 2011

baachitraka

it seems like it would be a good thing
to pick 1 film and a basic developer ( and a paper and basic developer ) that are available where you live ..
and use that film and developer ( and paper/developer ) for a year or maybe two, to learn all
what your film/paper and developers have to offer you. then you will be
able to use your camera, film / paper " in unison " to achieve negatives
suited to you .

what tends to happen is people get side tracked using 10 different films, 10 different developers, 10 different papers, 10 different developers
and come up for air a year or 2 later wondering why they are in the same place they started ...

its good to know and be able to predict how your "photographic system" will work in a variety of different situations
and using 1 developer/film/paper is a very good way of doing that ...

good luck !
john

abate cruento · Oct 20, 2011

i really like fomapan 100 in beutler

Tony-S · Oct 20, 2011

Fuji Acros and Perceptol 1+2 @ 72F for 16min.

guitstik · Oct 20, 2011

jnanian said:
my favorite is old expired ( 5-7 years out of date )
tmy or tri x sheet film stand developed in
instant coffee, spiked with washing soda, vit c and a splash of 1+ year old ansco 130 ...
processed until it is bullet proof
then contact printed on ilford fbmg ( or rc ) using a 300watt flood light .. processed in
expired ansco 130 dilute 1:2ish

Ahhh, yes. I love the smell of caffenol in the morning.

fstop · Oct 20, 2011

mailer envelope and some stamps

APLJ · Oct 20, 2011

HP5 in HC10, keep'n it simple...

MattKing · Oct 20, 2011

HC-110 is my developer. I've been using 1 + 49 recently (essentially the same as dilution E).

I'm trying to transition to a replenishment regime. I have some HC-110 replenisher, and when that runs out, I intend to try to make use of the observations in the HC-110 replenishment thread to use HC-110 instead: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

As far as film is concerned, my use and preferences are, in descending order:

1) Plus-X in 120;
2) TMY-2 in 120;
3) Plus-X in 135;
4) TMax-100 in 120 and 135 (may have to become a work in progress).

Blighty · Oct 21, 2011

HP5 @ 200asa in homebrewed D76 1:1

warden · Oct 24, 2011

I like (for 35mm):

Tri-X with Xtol (stock up to iso400, 1+1 @iso 800)
HP5 (same as Tri-X)
Neopan 1600 (Xtol 1+1 @ iso 800 and 1600)

dnjl · Oct 25, 2011

Tri-X 400 in Rodinal 1+50 (13min15sec) is my main combo right now.

tessar · Oct 25, 2011

Ilford FP4+ or HP5+ and Ilfotec HC 1:47. I've been using only this combination for years and it works well for me. Best of all, the film and developer are available right here in town!!!

Jeff Kubach · Oct 25, 2011

I like to use T-Max 400 and T-Max developer.

Jeff

Mainecoonmaniac · Oct 25, 2011

HC-110 and Arista EDU 100.

ParkerSmithPhoto · Oct 25, 2011

Sexton and TMAx

I read a piece many years ago by John Sexton on TMAX films, and he said something to the effect of "after using TMAX films for two years now, I am beginning to get intimately aware" of the emulsion. It's so true. We think we can do a roll here and a roll there and get some consistency in our work. Great artists know their materials, their strengths and limitations, and they max them out.

That being said, I periodically switch from TMAX to HP5, but still use Diafine. No one can tell the difference. I can't even tell the difference. So I think the endless obsession with film and developers is a bit overdone. Ansel used TriX. Avedon used TriX. Callahan used TriX. Salgado used TriX. etc. Does their work look at all alike?

brian steinberger · Oct 25, 2011

FP4 & HP5, both in ID-11 1:1. I occasionally throw some Tri-x in there too.

Dennis S · Oct 26, 2011

Lately have been using Neopan Acros 120 developed with Ilford ID-11 1:1 and 35mm Kentmere 100 in Blazinal 1-50. Been quite happy with the results

derwent · Oct 26, 2011

I've been using ID11 exclusively, initially as it was the only dev stocked locally but I'm sticking with it for a while before I start experimenting with others, besides Acros comes up so nicely in it!

Film and developer combo. Your choices are...

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