Mine has very slight slip apparently. How do you do a CLA that tightens it?When loading ensure that the incoming backing paper is over the tab that goes through the slot in the the take up spool. I always turn the tab so that the incoming backing paper will cover the slot before it covers the tab. If the start arrow is 1/4 inch or so past the alignment mark in the back it will not hurt.
The RB67 roll film holders use a clutch system for frame spacing. The roll holder needs a CLA.
https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/mamiya-rb67-pro-s-repair-manual.pdf pdf page 48 is the start of the RFH servicing.Mine has very slight slip apparently. How do you do a CLA that tightens it?
Pro-S on both.RB67 backs tend to have been used hard. RB57 backs tend to perform really well when serviced, unless they have been used so much that they have been worn to the point of breaking.
Which version of the RB67 do you have, and which version of the back are you using?
You mean so that the paper goes in the slot along with the film tab?When loading ensure that the incoming backing paper is over the tab that goes through the slot in the the take up spool. .
No, this is my second roll. The first roll was even less successful. I guess I could have asked them to send the paper back, if I'd known to ask, but it's probably too late, now.Dpn't have an RB67 but have used similar roll backs. Two questions:
- have you used / loaded 120 roll film extensively before?
- do you have a junk roll of film, or a spare roll of just the backing paper? (if you don't develop your own film you may not have any paper, but the lab could likely give you some)
Holy crap! Well, if the manual is right, I'd have to agree that it's a gear system. Beyond that, it's beyond me. So, time to consider a CLA on this puppy.https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/mamiya-rb67-pro-s-repair-manual.pdf pdf page 48 is the start of the RFH servicing.
Its a mechanical gear system not a clutch system. Dried oil residue and dust is likely causing levers and pins from not moving properly.
Resize it to 1000 pixels on the longest side - jpeg format works well.Also, can someone point me to the instructions for uploading an image? I figure I should share one or two after all this.
I do not have a RB67 RFH so I'm using a Graphic 23. Film loads the same as the RB RFH. I'm using backing paper only wound the same as a fresh roll of film.You mean so that the paper goes in the slot along with the film tab?
I'm a little concerned, though, that I'm falling into a 'money pit' situation. I've used 2 lenses and 1 back for 2 short rolls of film and 2 of those things need servicing. I've got 4 lenses and 2 backs, plus the 1 body and 3 viewfinders. If all of those need $100 CLA's/repairs, that's $1,000. Two of the viewfinders are unlikely to need work, but one might. That could still be $800, which could possibly be better spent on something else.
I don't know. I bought this kit based on the bomb-proof reputation of the RB system, but they don't seem to be living up to that reputation. Thoughts?
It’s a precision mechanical system that’s maybe 50 years old. These machines need maintenance. This was the stuff dreams were made of when I was young and completely out of reach financially. Now they are cheap- and old. Many times I have spent more on maintenance and repair than I initially spent on the old gear. I’m paying for the privilege of using very high quality gear- compared to what this stuff cost new I am getting a great bargain IMHO. If you’re going to be counting it as a monetary investment it’s going to be tough I think. It’s an investment in your ability to make images.I don't know. I bought this kit based on the bomb-proof reputation of the RB system, but they don't seem to be living up to that reputation. Thoughts?
Thanks, Matt!Resize it to 1000 pixels on the longest side - jpeg format works well.
You can either copy and paste the result into the thread, or upload the resulting files to the thread, using the Upload link at the bottom of the posting box.
You can also store it elsewhere on the internet, and link to the URL.
This is my concern, since I don't know how to tell. The back works fine without film, as far as I can tell, and the 65mm seemed like it was fine. I'd mounted and removed it before without problems.If any of the lenses and backs are worn to the point of requiring replacement of important parts - not merely maintenance - or have suffered serious damage, than the kit is problematic.
Ok, I get what you mean. Thanks! I'm pretty sure that's what I did, but it's impossible to be 100% sure, now.4. advance until the backing paper is over the tab in the slot then advance until the start arrows align.
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That's correct, this was my second roll of 120. Not my second roll ever, because I've run hundreds of rolls through various film cameras, some of which had funky loading procedures, but they were 35mm. And it's not my use of the camera that would make a CLA necessary. It was not CLA'd by its previous owner (at least, not recently), and sat on a shelf for a long time. The light seals were all deteriorated when I got it. I replaced those, but that's all I knew how to do, other than cleaning everything on the outside.If this is your second roll of 120 film, which is how I read your post, it is way too early to talk about CLA'ing the entire set.
Right. I'd be really surprised if they had the SAME problems, but I wouldn't be surprised if most or all of them had SOME problem(s).It is unlikely that all of your lenses and backs have identical problems.
Yeah, user error is a definite possibility. I did end up with one unintended double-exposure, which could have been my fault.it's common to have problems with the order of operations.
All true. What I'm looking at is the possibility of spending a bunch of money on this gear versus having that money to spend on new gear that won't have any problems. I really like the process of shooting with the RB (when I can make it work). It forces me to slow down and think about it and switch off my habitual run-and-gun mode of shooting. But, I also like getting the image I thought I was getting.It’s a precision mechanical system that’s maybe 50 years old. These machines need maintenance. This was the stuff dreams were made of when I was young and completely out of reach financially. Now they are cheap- and old. Many times I have spent more on maintenance and repair than I initially spent on the old gear. I’m paying for the privilege of using very high quality gear- compared to what this stuff cost new I am getting a great bargain IMHO. If you’re going to be counting it as a monetary investment it’s going to be tough I think. It’s an investment in your ability to make images.
Sure, and when I bought a 68 Mustang many moons ago, I did those things. And then the A-frame broke, taking the unibody welds with it and sending the car to the junkyard. I'm hoping this isn't like that car.The good news is, the RB67 was built to take heavy daily use (ten rolls a day was light duty!). The bad news is, many of the ones now on the used market did take that kind of use, for decades. It's not unreasonable to think a device with that much use might need some TLC -- if you bought a classic Mustang or Corvette (say, from 1968) with three hundred thousand miles on the odometer, you might expect to get it tuned up, belts and hoses and spark plugs/wires replaced, etc. before driving it even on weekend spins (while keeping your 2015 compact for the daily commute).
I'm hoping this isn't like that car.
5) RB67 negatives are wonderful!
If this is your second roll of 120 film, which is how I read your post, it is way too early to talk about CLA'ing the entire set. Burn a roll of 120 film in the light to practice and test it, a 120 roll can be as cheap as $5-6. Buy one, load it in the light paying careful attention to the film path and the start mark, wind it through.
From my bit of time playing with them it seems that just the backing paper on a spool should be fine to test the general mechanics of it, and should only need the spacing of the film itself to test issues with maybe the pressure plate, or fresh film for testing light leaks.
My experience testing RFH with backing paper only is that frame spacing will be tangent at the beginning and overlap 1mm to 2mm around the middle to end. This will translate to 1mm to 3mm distance between frames on film.
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