Ferrotype Plates and Print Drying

[Danner]

I saw a YouTube video on drying FB prints on a ferrotype plate, and then I found such plates @ B&H (Arkay brand) and ordered one. Curious if anyone else is doing this, any suggestions, tricks to make it work, or other info/ideas on producing these finely finished prints? I am also thinking about getting an electric print dryer, Freestyle has one for $200. It is not a ferrotype device, per se, but I am thinking my new ferrotype plate could be sandwiched in there to accelerate the drying in the ferrotype process.

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[Rick A]

Too bad you're in Texas, I have a couple of print dryers I would give you.

 

[Robert Maxey]

I saw a YouTube video on drying FB prints on a ferrotype plate, and then I found such plates @ B&H (Arkay brand) and ordered one. Curious if anyone else is doing this, any suggestions, tricks to make it work, or other info/ideas on producing these finely finished prints? I am also thinking about getting an electric print dryer, Freestyle has one for $200. It is not a ferrotype device, per se, but I am thinking my new ferrotype plate could be sandwiched in there to accelerate the drying in the ferrotype process.

I have a great deal of experience with ferrytype plates; chrome and japaned.

I dried most prints on a ferrotype plate. Actually, a large PAKO ferrotype drum dryer, but the ideas are the same. A few pointers: keep your FP clean. Make sure your prints are properly fixed and washed. Occasionally clean the plate. PAKO once provided a solution that made the ferrotype process easier, but you are on your own here. Kodak had something similar. From PAKO, it was called PakoSol. Perhaps Mr. Google can locate a formula.

Bob

 

[mshchem]

Go slow, low heat. I have Pako dryers, I very rarely ferrotype prints on the drum dryers. Clean and polish. And as Bob mentioned Pakosol or Kodak print flattening solution. Mr Google does have formulas, basically propylene glycol diluted with water.
Heated dryers like the little units sold by B&H need to be used on the absolute lowest setting.

RC paper with a new RC print dryer (like Arkay) that literally melt the gelatin, produce stunning gloss and a flat dry print in about 15 seconds. But that's a coward's way out.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have a old heated dryer, two sided with a canvas cover that hold the print to the plate. I don't plug mine in, let my prints dry slowly they pop off by themselves. I use Barkeepers Friend to clean the chrome plates, I have a few bottles of Kodak print flatting solution that I mix in distilled water, I only use one side and have taken off the canvas cover so I don't need to worry about keeping it clean.

 

[mshchem]

I have a old heated dryer, two sided with a canvas cover that hold the print to the plate. I don't plug mine in, let my prints dry slowly they pop off by themselves. I use Barkeepers Friend to clean the chrome plates, I have a few bottles of Kodak print flatting solution that I mix in distilled water, I only use one side and have taken off the canvas cover so I don't need to worry about keeping it clean.

PERFECT ADVICE!!!

 

[Danner]

Thanks for all the good advice. For now, I'm going to try the new chrome ferrotype plate without the print dryer. With good results, I might add that later.

@Paul Howell: Could you please elaborate on this statement? "I only use one side and have taken off the canvas cover so I don't need to worry about keeping it clean." Are the two sides the top & bottom? And, are there two canvas covers corresponding to the two sides?

Thanks.

 

[Paul Howell]

Thanks for all the good advice. For now, I'm going to try the new chrome ferrotype plate without the print dryer. With good results, I might add that later.

@Paul Howell: Could you please elaborate on this statement? "I only use one side and have taken off the canvas cover so I don't need to worry about keeping it clean." Are the two sides the top & bottom? And, are there two canvas covers corresponding to the two sides?

Thanks.

Mine has two sides, when used as a dryer there is a canvas sheet that holds the print next to the plate, with 2 sides you can dry 2 11X14s at a time. Print face down on the plate for glossy, canvas side down for matt.

Here is an image of one similar to mine, without the canvas I only use one side. I dry my FB prints matt on screens that I can stack one on top of the other on my patio, living in the desert southwest most days takes less than an hour. I only use the dryer when I need a FB glossy which is not often.

 

[Robert Maxey]

Go slow, low heat. I have Pako dryers, I very rarely ferrotype prints on the drum dryers. Clean and polish. And as Bob mentioned Pakosol or Kodak print flattening solution. Mr Google does have formulas, basically propylene glycol diluted with water.
Heated dryers like the little units sold by B&H need to be used on the absolute lowest setting.

RC paper with a new RC print dryer (like Arkay) that literally melt the gelatin, produce stunning gloss and a flat dry print in about 15 seconds. But that's a coward's way out.

As I recall it, you are right about Pakosol.

Bob

 

[mshchem]

As I recall it, you are right about Pakosol.

Bob

I think there's a guy that has some 1 qt. bottles of the magic elixir on Ebay

 

[Pakman777]

Does anyone know where I can find a canvas cover replacement for the Pako superdrum?
Phil

 

[Paul Howell]

I don't believe that Pako is still in business, unless you can old stock on eBay you will need to have one made. Choices are to contact an awning shop, or make it yourself. Not sure what it would take to make it yourself, might need a heavy duty sewing machine to stich the canvas.

 

[Pakman777]

Paul; Thanks for your response. I can't seem to find any evidence that Pako has been in business for quite a few years as well. Awning shop suggestion is a good one. I need to find the dimensions for it the canvas, which I have also not been able to locate anywhere so far. There is a beautiful Pako dryer available to me, but they had cut off the canvas belt for some reason.

Thanks again for your response.

Phil

 

[Paul Howell]

If the price is right you can buy it, then do some basic measurement, with an old used sheet cut out a pattern for the awing shop to use as a template. In the 70s before I was hired by UPI and freelancing I had a Pako, we also had Pako in the AF, need to make sure the drum is not scratched. I take it you print a high volume of prints and print glossy. Other wise for same price you can buy a set of fiber glass window screens that can be stacked. I have a set which I can dry up to 16 11X14s, my usual print run is 4 to 8 8X10 or 11X14. The screens can be washed. I live the desert southwest and dry my prints on my patio, takes about 20 minutes.

 

[tezzasmall]

If the price is right you can buy it, then do some basic measurement, with an old used sheet cut out a pattern for the awing shop to use as a template.

Paul; Awning shop suggestion is a good one. I need to find the dimensions for it...
Phil

I needed a new canvas sheet for my drier as well, after being given one where the canvas was really stained and totally unusable.

On good old eBay I manged to get a piece of unbleached canvas that was much larger than I needed for a really low price.

Luckily I have a sewing machine as well and it just took about an hour to make one to size; so no industrial machine is needed to do it. But as you say, you really need the original canvas or measurements before even contemplating doing it... Good luck.

Terry S