Hello,
I had posted previously with a question about the development time for Ferrania Orto 50. I decided to go the HC110 Dilution G route. Agitate for one minute then let stand for 59 minutes, total one hour development time. I thought the results were satisfactory, the negatives were clear and comparable to panchromatic negatives. I pasted my procedure at the end of this post as a reference for others who may have the same question I had. To keep the temperature somewhat consistent I place my development tank in an old cooler with water at approximately 70 degrees, there is about a two degree drop per hour. I put the rest of my chemistry in the cooler as well so it will be at 68 when I need it.
I've made a couple of prints but will have to do some more experimenting. The structures in the prints looked okay but the lake water surrounding them looked a little odd.
I'll definitely be buying more orthochromatic film in the future! I like having access to an older film technology and eventually hope to make prints that look like they could have been taken 100+ years ago.
Developing procedure:
HC 110 Dilution G 1:119
6.5 mL concentrate to 793.5 mL water at 68 degrees F
Ilfostop 1:19
50 mL concentrate to 950 mL water at 68 degrees F
lford Rapid Fixer 1:4
200 mL concentrate to 800 mL water at 68 degrees F
Photoflow 200 1:200 800 mL
4 mL concentrate to 796 mL distilled water at 68 degrees F
HC 110 Dilution G 1:119
1 Hour
1 minute continuous agitation, once complete inversion every 2 seconds
Let sit for one hour
Ilfostop 1:200
1 minute continuous agitation, once complete inversion every 2 seconds
Ilford fixer 1:4
6 minutes
30 seconds continuous agitation one inversion every 2 seconds
6 inversions every 1 minute over 9 seconds
Rinse
Fill with water at 68 degrees F invert 5 times, drain
Fill with water at 68 degrees F invert 10 times, drain
Fill with water at 68 degrees F invert 20 times, drain
Photoflow
1 inversion let sit 1 minute
I had posted previously with a question about the development time for Ferrania Orto 50. I decided to go the HC110 Dilution G route. Agitate for one minute then let stand for 59 minutes, total one hour development time. I thought the results were satisfactory, the negatives were clear and comparable to panchromatic negatives. I pasted my procedure at the end of this post as a reference for others who may have the same question I had. To keep the temperature somewhat consistent I place my development tank in an old cooler with water at approximately 70 degrees, there is about a two degree drop per hour. I put the rest of my chemistry in the cooler as well so it will be at 68 when I need it.
I've made a couple of prints but will have to do some more experimenting. The structures in the prints looked okay but the lake water surrounding them looked a little odd.
I'll definitely be buying more orthochromatic film in the future! I like having access to an older film technology and eventually hope to make prints that look like they could have been taken 100+ years ago.
Developing procedure:
HC 110 Dilution G 1:119
6.5 mL concentrate to 793.5 mL water at 68 degrees F
Ilfostop 1:19
50 mL concentrate to 950 mL water at 68 degrees F
lford Rapid Fixer 1:4
200 mL concentrate to 800 mL water at 68 degrees F
Photoflow 200 1:200 800 mL
4 mL concentrate to 796 mL distilled water at 68 degrees F
HC 110 Dilution G 1:119
1 Hour
1 minute continuous agitation, once complete inversion every 2 seconds
Let sit for one hour
Ilfostop 1:200
1 minute continuous agitation, once complete inversion every 2 seconds
Ilford fixer 1:4
6 minutes
30 seconds continuous agitation one inversion every 2 seconds
6 inversions every 1 minute over 9 seconds
Rinse
Fill with water at 68 degrees F invert 5 times, drain
Fill with water at 68 degrees F invert 10 times, drain
Fill with water at 68 degrees F invert 20 times, drain
Photoflow
1 inversion let sit 1 minute