Feasibility check for esoteric Nikon F2 modification: remove X sync switchover, for M sync at 1/60

[atomicthumbs]

I currently use a Nikkormat EL for a flashbulb portraiture setup, as it's able to sync at all speeds with flashbulbs. I'd love to switch to an F2, but Nikon added a convenience feature for the photographer interested in electronic flash: automatic M-X switchover at 1/60 and the X setting. If I were interested in electronic flash I'd use my OM-4Ti.

I'd enjoy being able to use flashbulbs at 1/60 but the camera specifically prevents it. Is it possible to partially or entirely disable the X sync, leaving it with M sync for 1/60, without fabricating a new sync running cam (part 381-1 in the repair manual)? I'm having trouble nailing down the theory of operation here.

 

[reddesert]

What motivates you to switch to an F2, given that the Nikkormat EL is especially suited to your application? If you want batteryless operation, the Nikkormat FTn also syncs at all speeds with M flashbulbs - it has a separate M PC port. (I think the FT2 went to automatic switching though.)

The Nikon F has a manually switchable sync control and will sync with M bulbs at 1/60 and slower. But I think you have to turn it to different settings for 1/60 vs 1/30 and slower, depending on the shutter speed selected (for bulbs, not for X). That might get old quickly, and one begins to understand why they went to automatic sync switching.

I believe that one reason the Nikkormats can do M sync at all speeds, even fast ones, is that they have a faster shutter. That is, an M flashbulb has a burn time of about 10 millisec. The Nikkormat has a sync speed of 1/125, meaning that its shutter completes its travel within the burn time of the bulb, so if you put a Nikkormat on 1/250 and fire a flashbulb, you should get full coverage of the image, although reduced intensity, like with an FP bulb. For the Nikon F or F2 sync speed of 1/60 sec, the curtain travel time is longer than the burn time, so the flash will not cover the full image. The high speeds may not be of interest to you, but I hope it explains why the Nikkormats are physically different and more suited to this use.

 

[Chan Tran]

I don't see much point in modifying the valuable F2 camera for shooting bulb while you have many other easy and inexpensive options.

 

[atomicthumbs]

What motivates you to switch to an F2, given that the Nikkormat EL is especially suited to your application? If you want batteryless operation, the Nikkormat FTn also syncs at all speeds with M flashbulbs - it has a separate M PC port. (I think the FT2 went to automatic switching though.)

The Nikon F has a manually switchable sync control and will sync with M bulbs at 1/60 and slower. But I think you have to turn it to different settings for 1/60 vs 1/30 and slower, depending on the shutter speed selected (for bulbs, not for X). That might get old quickly, and one begins to understand why they went to automatic sync switching.

I believe that one reason the Nikkormats can do M sync at all speeds, even fast ones, is that they have a faster shutter. That is, an M flashbulb has a burn time of about 10 millisec. The Nikkormat has a sync speed of 1/125, meaning that its shutter completes its travel within the burn time of the bulb, so if you put a Nikkormat on 1/250 and fire a flashbulb, you should get full coverage of the image, although reduced intensity, like with an FP bulb. For the Nikon F or F2 sync speed of 1/60 sec, the curtain travel time is longer than the burn time, so the flash will not cover the full image. The high speeds may not be of interest to you, but I hope it explains why the Nikkormats are physically different and more suited to this use.

Mostly, it's a combination of the Action Finder and the sense of inner wellbeing and prestige I'd get from using a ~Professional System Camera~. That footnote about how "some M class bulbs have a long enough duration" to cover all speeds just piqued my interest; if they're talking about big ones, I've got a Graflite with a 7" reflector that'd go well with the camera.

I don't see much point in modifying the valuable F2 camera for shooting bulb while you have many other easy and inexpensive options.

My ideal here is that this would be an easily reversible modification. (or as easy as it can get when you're rooting around in a camera's guts)