gmikol
Allowing Ads
Hi All--
I didn't have any luck searching on this particular topic, so I'm looking for some help here.
I understand that if you mix Part A and Part B of Farmer's reducer, it is only active for a certain amount of time (10-15 mins?). What I don't understand is, which part degrades the other?
That is, if I'm using it in a 2-bath (separate A and B) method, will carryover from A to B "poison" part B (the fixer?).
I've been going straight from A to B (with a few seconds for draining), but if I have to go from B back to A to reduce farther, I've been going through a quick water rinse. I'm not sure how I settled on this method of work (probably a link I found somewhere, but never bookmarked).
The reason I ask is that my Part B has gotten slightly yellow, not the clear liquid it starts out as. So I'm wondering, is my method of work appropriate, or should I be using a dunk in clean water when going from A to B as well? Or is it not necessary in either direction?
I'd appreciate any help...
--Greg
I didn't have any luck searching on this particular topic, so I'm looking for some help here.
I understand that if you mix Part A and Part B of Farmer's reducer, it is only active for a certain amount of time (10-15 mins?). What I don't understand is, which part degrades the other?
That is, if I'm using it in a 2-bath (separate A and B) method, will carryover from A to B "poison" part B (the fixer?).
I've been going straight from A to B (with a few seconds for draining), but if I have to go from B back to A to reduce farther, I've been going through a quick water rinse. I'm not sure how I settled on this method of work (probably a link I found somewhere, but never bookmarked).
The reason I ask is that my Part B has gotten slightly yellow, not the clear liquid it starts out as. So I'm wondering, is my method of work appropriate, or should I be using a dunk in clean water when going from A to B as well? Or is it not necessary in either direction?
I'd appreciate any help...
--Greg
