Any reversal type print could require CM, CY, or MY in any combination to correct for lighting changes and enlarger type. Cibachrome even had a published filtration difference between Ektachrome and Kodachrome.
PE
I always wondered why cyan filters are on the color heads, but someone must find them useful at some point. Or were cyan filters just added for completeness. [note: I am not entirely being sirius here, so please do not use this as a way to hijack the thread.]
I always wondered why cyan filters are on the color heads, but someone must find them useful at some point. Or were cyan filters just added for completeness. [note: I am not entirely being sirius here, so please do not use this as a way to hijack the thread.]
It will help us to help you if you give more information such as enlarger(type dichroic head or gel fiters), how you establish exposure time, your fstop setting, print size, print filtration setting(Y and M), use of safelight., print processor
To help us eliminate potential causes tell us as much as possible about what you do from taking the paper out of its box to drying the print
Hi,
I have found the chemical problem, the plastic trays I was using must have been ruining the chemicals. I have poured the chemicals into glass jars and on second use, all is fine.
I warmed everything up to 35c or as close as I could get it. I pre-soaked the paper and Paterson orbiter. I set the filters to 60y 50m 0c as I read this is a good stating place. I set the aperture to 5.6 which is 2 steps back from full open. I did the test strip with 2 sec intervals and processed for 30 secs in dev,stop and blix.
Hopefully this info is of more use. Should I try stepping down onw with the aperture?.
I am using the Paterson orbital tank. I made up fresh solutions this morning. Thing is the tank says it needs only 55ml of chemical for each sage. When I got the chemicals up to 35c and used them, the developer is very fast acting and at 45 secs in the developer the paper comes out black. On second use of the same developer, it is slower and more manageable.
It will help us to help you if you give more information such as enlarger(type dichroic head or gel fiters), how you establish exposure time, your fstop setting, print size, print filtration setting(Y and M), use of safelight., print processor
To help us eliminate potential causes tell us as much as possible about what you do from taking the paper out of its box to drying the print
Hi,
I have found the chemical problem, the plastic trays I was using must have been ruining the chemicals. I have poured the chemicals into glass jars and on second use, all is fine.
I warmed everything up to 35c or as close as I could get it. I pre-soaked the paper and Paterson orbiter. I set the filters to 60y 50m 0c as I read this is a good stating place. I set the aperture to 5.6 which is 2 steps back from full open. I did the test strip with 2 sec intervals and processed for 30 secs in dev,stop and blix.
Hopefully this info is of more use. Should I try stepping down onw with the aperture?.
Please stick to the published times, which is 45 seconds at 35C. It appears to me that what you are doing right now is that you are still overexposing and trying to compensate for that by "pulling" the development. This is not good practice and will not produce satisfactory results. Instead shorten the exposure time (stop down) and give the paper the full 45 seconds at 35C (steady agitation). Keep in mind that RA4 Color paper is VERY fast! To give you an idea what to expect: I just checked my records and the last time I printed smaller prints (5x7 at the time), I had an exposure time of 8s at f16 with almost 2 stops neutral density dialed in (plus the normal filtration of 50M 75Y). So if we take the ND filter out of the equation this would translate to 2s at f16 --- for a 5x7 print! So you are printing on 4x5 paper with 2 sec at f5.6 my guess is that you are still overxposing by 2-3 stops at least (!).
Hi Everyone,
This test strip is done at fstop 8 with 2 sec intervals. I think I have the density better but the colour is ver Blueish. What do I ad or minus to get rid of the blue?.
Mick
Just to put my oar in - The chemistry is fresh supplied from Tetenal, and the paper from Fujifilm. We have a good stock turn on these products - so you can rule out the chemistry or the paper going off. There are loads of variables and factors in colour printing that can be affecting these prints - especially if you have weak temperature control.
If you need me to I can obtain dates from Tetenal and Fujifilm as there are batch numbers to help rule this out.
Absolutely best advise is keep an eye on ebay for a Durst printo or RCP processor - it will make a massive difference, so much easier! very handy machines.
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