F76+ at 80degrees

[Paul Howell]

Had my last roll of Kentmere 400 all ready for processing. Mix my chemistry, tap water was 80 degrees, I just bought a new refrigerator and the ice maker is on backorder, and out of bagged ice with a thunderstorm in progress. Rather than dump my chem I used my very old Kodak Master Darkroom Data Guide, found that Trix and D76 is the closest to Kentmere and Clayton F 76, using the developing computer determined the time for 80s degrees. At 68degrees 7 minutes at 80 degrees 3.5, and took a leap of faith. The negatives looks a bit thin, still printable. Will not know what happened to grain or there is any streaking or uneven until I print.

 

[gone]

I generally develop my film at higher temps than 68 and give them a little less time in the developer w/ gentler agitation. It doesn't really affect my negs. I've tried these higher temps w/ Foma 100 and 400 and Tri-X. Higher temps mean the developer will be more active, so it would be easy to adjust your times to reflect your higher temps.

Will not know what happened to grain or there is any streaking or uneven until I print.

That's why I bought a cheapo Wolverine scanner for $50. 35mm negs are too small for me to really see what's there, so the little scanner gives me a better idea of what the grain situation is, are any water marks onit likely to show up on a print, etc.

 

[Pat Erson]

I generally develop my film at higher temps than 68 and give them a little less time in the developer w/ gentler agitation. It doesn't really affect my negs.

I processed a few batches of HP5 at 21°C in D-76 1+1 for 12 minutes instead of the usual 13 and I had the impression the highlights were a bit "hard"/overdone.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

... F76 ... old Kodak Master Darkroom Data Guide ... developing computer determined the time for 80 degrees. ... The negatives looks a bit thin ...

That has also been my experience and I am glad I'm not alone. The corrections for high temperatures seem to be off; I think adding an extra 10-15% or so at 80F might be in order.

 

[MattKing]

The high temperature corrections in a 1970s Master Darkroom Dataguide (as an example) might very well reflect the substantial differences between films today and films ~50 years ago.
I know, it seems weird to talk about the 1970s as 50 years ago!

 

[abruzzi]

Since my tap water is almost always over 80F, when I'm getting ready to develop, I load the film, mix the developer, then put the deveoper in the freezer while I get everything else out and ready. I've never bothered to temperture match the stop and fix, and have never had issues because of it. Once everything is out and setup, I pre-wet the film a couple times to get the dyes out, then usually the dev is close to temp. I've never tried the temp compensation calculations, because I figure its not hard to get the chemistry to temp the ideal temperture. Today, I feel like I could leave my C41 chemicals outside, and have them up to 105F in no time.

 

[Paul Howell]

My data guides are from the 60s, yet my last version holds up. The current Kodak Data Sheet calls for Tri X in D76 at 68 degrees and the Master Darkroom Data guide 1968 is the same 8 minutes. But the 1961 version is quite a bit different, at 10 and half minutes, not sure why the change in time, new emulsion? Tmax 400 calls for a bit over 8 minutes in D76 at 68 degrees, so I assume that the time will be close to the KMDG for Trix X for developers not listed in new data sheet like DK 50, which I think would be very good with Tmax 400. Stepping to films other than Kodak I think is more of leap of faith, the curves for Foma films are really different so changing temp and times is more a matter of luck.

 

[Paul Howell]

Since my tap water is almost always over 80F, when I'm getting ready to develop, I load the film, mix the developer, then put the deveoper in the freezer while I get everything else out and ready. I've never bothered to temperture match the stop and fix, and have never had issues because of it. Once everything is out and setup, I pre-wet the film a couple times to get the dyes out, then usually the dev is close to temp. I've never tried the temp compensation calculations, because I figure its not hard to get the chemistry to temp the ideal temperture. Today, I feel like I could leave my C41 chemicals outside, and have them up to 105F in no time.

My wife put her foot down on putting chemistry in the refrigerator. I normally use an ice bath, and I have a 5 gallon bucket with a coil of copper piping that connects to a shower that I fill with ice and water for the wash. Normally I go the .99 cent store and buy a 7 pound bag of ice.

 

[Horatio]

My Finesse 400 looks pretty good with a time of 5:30 in D76 at 78-79 degrees.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have a roll of Finesse 100 and just ordered a roll of 400, will give the 400 a try in F76+ same time as D76.