f/stop printing versus real-time.

fotch

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RalphLambrecht said:
I can offer this link:

Dead Link Removed

It's an introduction but give you all you need to get started.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Arithmetic vs Geometric . Now I understand. F stop timing is just shorthand or another way of saying Geometric timing.

Got it.

Should be able to duplicate the method without buying anything. However, I can see that if one adopts this method, getting a timer that works in Geometric would be desirable.

Thanks again.
 

BradS

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RalphLambrecht said:
I can offer this link:

Dead Link Removed

It's an introduction but give you all you need to get started.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ralph. Unfortunately, that whole web domains is blocked by the corporate big brother...will have to give it a look at home. Probably just as well.
 

Vaughn

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RH Designs said:
In a darkroom?!
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Real photographers contact big negatives outside in the fresh air onto alt photo material they make themselves...

Vaughn
 

RalphLambrecht

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BradS said:
Thanks Ralph. Unfortunately, that whole web domains is blocked by the corporate big brother...will have to give it a look at home. Probably just as well.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that. I do celebrate the beauty of god's creation (women) and do so with the utmost respect. Corporate Big Brother doesn't always see it that way, which I understand, because it doesn't mix well with corporate business. Therefore, I can see that any website, which states:

All images on this site are in compliance with 18 USC §2257.

must be suspicious to them. All '18 USC §2257' really means, however, is that I do not take pictures of minors and that I can prove it.
 

RJS

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Really, Ralph? How? Proving a negative would be an astonishing undertaking. Your book "Way Beyond . . ." is good, but this next one promises even more. I shall await with baited breath!
 

Vaughn

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Tom Kershaw said:
Manufacturing their own paper I presume...

Tom.
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A few of the more hardy ones do. I wimp out and just make the emulsion. But I am trying to be eco-friendly...the paper I use I get from people who would otherwise toss it in the landfill.

Vaughn
 

Vaughn

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Tom, the platinum/palladium prints are my quick and easy prints. My real prints are carbon prints. (j/k) I make my own carbon tissue...gelatin sugar and carbon, poured on used litho film the students don't want. Exposed tissues are transferred onto fixed out photo paper (I use FB glossy) that gets given to me because it has been fogged with age.

My portfolio here is all carbon prints.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Vaughn
 
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Vaughn

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Tom, I taught myself the process from a magazine article in 1992. I did not know anyone else making them, and never saw an actual carbon print...and this was before the internet became the conduit of information as it is today. So I spent about two years making prints until I got the ones I wanted...although the first ones were not too bad. I has seen some raised relief in the early prints that would disappear as the prints dried (the gelatin shrinks). So those two years was spent figuring out how to expose and develop my negs and how to make the carbon tissue in order to keep the raised relief after the prints dried. I did not realize (thankfully, LOL!) that carbon prints usually did not have raised relief.

But now with the internet and forums like this and the Carbon Forum, one can look at online prints, get feedback and immediate help. People are experiment with new and rediscovered techniques and materials, and sharing that information -- it is all pretty exciting. Commercial carbon tissue is now being made, and there are workshops in carbon printing (I am giving one at the Ansel Adams Gallery in Yosemite Valley next week). So I would say that the learning curve has been significantly flattened. It is not that difficult of a process...there just are a lot of variables to keep in check and little details in the process a newbie can trip on. It does tend to be a time-consuming process, but very inexpensive.

Vaughn
 
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Vaughn

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A wide variety of supports can be used. The various art papers (water color, etc) can be used if a coated with hardened gelatin or polymer sizing. Folks over on the Carbon Forum are experimenting with aluminum sheets (painted or powder coated, with gelatin or polymer coatings -- or just right on the aluminum). They can go on glass.

I like the fixed out FB glossy photopaper for its simplicity, its ability to maximize the raised relief, and the way it looks. Others prefer a matt surface, and even RC paper can be used...but given the permanence of the process (one of the most stable), using RC seems to be a waste. But what is required is a non-porous surface...hard smooth surfaces tend to show more relief than soft textured ones.

I also use the single trasnfer method. This reverses the image (mirror image), but I compose for this. The double transfer creates a non-reversed image, but it hides the raised relief...which is probably one of the main reasons early carbons (19th Century and early 20th Century) rarely showed any relief.

I highly recommend looking at the Carbon Forum...both the discussions and the images in the gallery. http://bostick-sullivan.invisionzone.com/

Vaughn
 

BradS

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RalphLambrecht said:
I can offer this link:

Dead Link Removed

It's an introduction but give you all you need to get started.
Click to expand...

Hi Ralph,

Thanks for the tutorial.

Nice web site. I'm glad the big brother thingy at work bloked the site...it would have been difficult to explain that opening gallery show....very nice work BTW.

I wish I had found your site sooner. I have for some years been meaning to buy "Way Beyond Monochrome"....would have been cool to get a copy straight from the the author. I am going to go curl up next to my accountant and read your article now....Thanks again!
 

mike c

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I've been printing photo's the same way for over thirty years now and never thought there was a different way of doing it. Well I bought one of those enlarger meters from Darkroom Automation last week and fiddled around with it and discovered a few things that were going on in the darkroom that I had not notice before. One thing was the safe lights can't be on when you use the meter (its more sensitive than the photo paper) . Another was my cold lit changes intensity on start up a lot more than I thought,having a compensating timer hide that fact from me.To get a stable reading I have to turn the enlarger on for about 30 sec. before taking readings ,which is alright with me. I bought it for ex poser control and roughly determining density range. However reading this string about stop times and such, has got me thinking about different approaches to printing that could benefit me, but I still haven't got a handle on this Fstop printing stuff yet. Went to Amazon.comm to find Way Beyond Monochrome but no luck, out of print. Anybody know where I could find a copy.

mike c.
 

RalphLambrecht

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mike c said:
Went to Amazon.comm to find Way Beyond Monochrome but no luck, out of print. Anybody know where I could find a copy.

mike c.
Click to expand...

As announced elsewhere, a new, and much extended, 2nd edition of Way Beyond Monochrome will be available in March, 2010.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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mike c said:
Way Beyond Monochrome ... Anybody know where I could find a copy.
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abebooks.com often has a used copy listed, but doesn't seem to at present. Try placing a used order at Amazon or a 'want' listing on abebooks - abebooks will then email if a used copy gets listed.
 

mike c

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ya I did that all ready ,If nothing happens I'll just wait for Ralph's new edition to come out. O ya having fun with the DA meter I bought.

Mike c.
 

nevill

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I was saddened to hear that gene Nocon passed away a few days ago. It reminded me of the many hours I spent printing back in London using the Nocon Timer. And this reminded me that, 15 years later, having emigrated to America, I still have the timer boxed away in my basement. It's probably unlikely that I'll be setting up a darkroom again, so the timer should probably be given to someone who will use it. Let me know if you're interested. Thanks, Simon Nevill. Cell 608 335 3010.
 

RalphLambrecht

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Nicholas Lindan said:
abebooks.com often has a used copy listed, but doesn't seem to at present. Try placing a used order at Amazon or a 'want' listing on abebooks - abebooks will then email if a used copy gets listed.
Click to expand...

try any of these:yondmonochrome.com/WBM2/Where_to_Buy.html:
 
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