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extreme base fog due to accidental stand development..

fotoobscura

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I accidentally developed what was supposed to be a 9m development of xtol & rodinal into a 60+ minute stand development. The base fog is incredible and so I went wandering through Anchells book in some sort of prayer that I'd run into a formula to tame base fog...Nothing there, presumably because it doesn't exist..

The negative is clearly quite dense, does it make sense to bleach at this point to reduce overall contrast and density?

Head into the darkroom and try to print through it? It's pretty serious approaching a light leak look...On the other hand, you can clearly see the pretty developer swirling all around my film for an hour.

Thanks.
 
sheet or roll film ?
have you made a contact sheet /print with it yet ?
you might like the results!
when i first processed negatives so dense i couldn't see through
them, i thought " what am i gonna do now ?"
but now i do it on purpose and would rather contact film like that
than any other sort of film ..

good luck!
john
 
Hey John.

Roll film. Ok off to the darkroom to see what happens...I'm pretty sure I'll be able to do something in the darkroom...

You live you learn...Don't drink Jameson in the middle of development..

Thanks
 
Try printing through the dense negative. I did something similar a few years ago and developed some negs N+ when they should have gotten extreme compensating development. To my great surprise, they printed pretty well on grade 00 paper. It took a long time under the enlarger, but they were printable.
 
I agree, try printing first.

If they don't print well, you could do some bleaching using a potassium ferricyanide solution. I've never done it, so that's the end of my advice - but it can be done. Kodak's Farmer's Reducer was such a solution.
 
When you have an acceptable negative with a normal fog, chances are higher to get better picture.
Using a flabby involves some risk. It is good to practice on other pieces of irrelevant film. I have tested a proportional flabby with ammonium thiosulfate. He works as flabby proportionately. Recipe and conditions are given in the picture. http://www.flickr.com/photos/21121448@N06/4507764748/
Ammonium thiosulfate ..............150 g;
Citric acid ...............................20 g;
Water ………………………..........….1000 ml.
The film used was a negative b/& Azo - film produced in Romania. Flabby work differently depending on the film. Be tested each.
George
 
This is great.....I will bleach and try printing.