Expired, unrefridgerated color film?

[GarageBoy]

So I found some Ektachrome 100 and some rolls of VPS- it's expired (mid 90s)- how screwed are they?

Edit: anyone want some random expired Kodak VPS and other misc rolls in 120/220?

 

[snapguy]

old roll

I'd like to hear the answer, too. I happen to have a roll of Ektachrome that I exposed back around 1990 and I wonder what to do with it.

 

[bvy]

Cross-process it!

 

[mrred]

I would just process them. If you do get a colour shift....get them scanned. I would not over think it.

 

[Dr Croubie]

sell it on fleabay and use the words 'lomo', 'cross process', and 'expired' 2 times per sentence. You'll probably get more for it than new film...

 

[BrianShaw]

sell it on fleabay and use the words 'lomo', 'cross process', and 'expired' 2 times per sentence. You'll probably get more for it than new film...

For another 20% in value, add the words "rare" and "not available from any other source".

 

[GarageBoy]

Gifting the negative stuff to another APUG-er
No lomo-er would want the stuff- it's 220 and not 120 and thus not useable in a holga...

 

[M Carter]

I'll take any EPJ you've got!!! Favorite color film ever...

 

[GarageBoy]

No EPJ- I guess I'll shoot it at box speed and E6 as normal

 

[M Carter]

With EPP and Velvia, I usually gave them about 10% more exposure than box speed, IE rating EPP at 80-90. This gave me cleaner highlights. I've only used it in studio settings with polaroid though (old-school polaroid that was consistent - usually needed about 1/3 to 1/2 stop more exposure than what the 100 ISO 'roid showed to be good), rarely did E6 for just walk-around shooting.

Pretty much always snip-tested E6 at the lab and usually gave it +1/3 to +1/2, too - all to get things a little snappier. For old film like that, if you do your own E6, you might want to shoot some test strips and see where you're at - I'd assume it may have changed, possibly to a great extent.

 

[Athiril]

Just processed a roll of found exposed Ektachrome 64, there's images on it, but the base fogging is quite high so they're only just visible.

For minimal fuss I would get it pulled processed 1/3 to 1/2 a stop to get a little bit of extra density back, since it wont be projection quality anyway.

Processing as a negative will get you more of an image in the case of really bad base fogging.


If you want to be creative you can rehal E-6 process and re-process in colour dev to keep building up dMax/density, you have to pull it out before it reaches colour dev, and use a dichromate/sulphuric acid b&w reversal type bleach, wash out the bleach and sulphite clear etc, then colour develop, then wash that out, use a rehal type bleach, wash/sulphite clear and re-colour develop and so on.