Expired FB paper

[Terrence Brennan]

I have some expired FB paper, Agfa Multicontrast and some Foma variable contrast paper. The last time I used these papers was the Autumn of 2015, and even though I added a 10% solution of benzotriazole to my developer (D-72 diluted 1:2), the whites could have used a bit of perking up.

Can one of my fellow APUGers recommend an appropriate reducer to clean up the whites? I don't have any potassium ferricyanide in stock right now, but I do have benzotriazole, potassium bromide and sulfuric acid, among other chemicals.

If, as I suspect, there isn't a formula that doesn't use potassium ferricyanide, I will have to try and order some by mail, and like the rest of the globe, I am self isolating at this time. Any input on this subject would be greatly appreciated!

 

[john_s]

You're going to need some Ferri for this project I think. It is amazing what you can do with it.

 

[kevs]

Hi Terrance,
I was going to recommend split Farmer's Reducer but because you've no pot ferri, the following recipe from my "bible" (Amateur Photographer's Dictionary of Photography p.554 (1961 edn) A.L.M. Sowerby (editor), Iliffe Books, London) might be useful, though I've never tried it:

"Reduction of prints – Over-dark bromide prints, including those that have been sulphide-toned by any process, may be reduced in:

2 grammes common salt (sodium chloride)
.05 grammes potassium permanganate
0.5 c.c sulphuric acid (no strength given)
Water to 250 c.c.

The print should be hardened before treatment. If the action is too rapid, the reducer may be diluted further. When sufficient reduction has taken place, the print is transferred to an acid fixing bath for a minute or two, then washed and dried. Any remaining stain can be removed by treatment in a solution of potassium metabisulphite.”

I've no idea whether this would reduce the highlights or the darker toned first. You could try printing with a half-grade or one grade more contrast than you normally would use.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Another option for bleaching developed silver is the peroxide/acid bleach. I've seen is used mainly in B&W reversal, but if you use 3% peroxide (the kind you get at a drug store) and acetic acid (white vinegar 1+1 in water, or stop bath) in a two-bath setup, it should work slow enough to control You can also dilute the peroxide more if it's still too fast. It'll bleach all the silver, all at once, so you may need to expose your prints a bit more than usual to compensate. Also worthy of note, except to check progress, keep the prints face down; this bleach will redeposit silver on a face up print and give brown stains that show up later. Face down, they stay clean.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Of the options listed, just getting some potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide and mixing a rehalogenating bleach seems pretty safe and easy. A weak overall bleaching will often lift the fog on the whites with old paper. Be careful about bleaching too long, as invariably different parts of the print start to bleach at different rates and there may be a shift in image tone in the highlights.

Best,

Doremus