That is right, the Bessa rangefinder might not be as shockproof as that of a Leica, but OTOH it is very easy to adjust it yourself in case that it is misaligned. I think the extra moving baffle in front of the shutter is part of the shutter to make it light tight. The base of the Bessa comes from Cosinas SLR cameras, like the Nikon FM-10 and FE-10 which have the mirror in front of the shutter. But I might be wrong with this. So it is true, Leicas are quieter than Bessas, but I think you won't hear any of them when shooting on the street in a city. It might get more problematic when using it in a very quiet place.... the rangefinder mechanisms are not as shockproof as Leica - and, of course, the cameras, with the extra moving baffle in front of the shutter used for exposure metering, are not as quiet as Leica M.
Seconded, with the additional observation that even the T is only about as accurate as an ordinary ZI or Leica because of the extremely short RF base even after magnification; I'd not want to use 50/1.5, 75/2 or 90/2 lenses with any Bessas except the T, and even then, it's marginal. And if you want to use the 135/2,8 (one of my favourites) you need an M body anyway...I guess it boils down to, do you want to use every possible M and L lens, and have an -extremely- accurate rangefinder? Then spend $200-$300 (depending on black or chrome) and buy a T. Or, if you need a "box", because you can comfortably "guess" focus wide lenses, and you enjoy the simplicity of that experience, get an L, for $75-$150.
Either way is equally good, depending on your needs
Seconded, with the additional observation that even the T is only about as accurate as an ordinary ZI or Leica because of the extremely short RF base even after magnification; I'd not want to use 50/1.5, 75/2 or 90/2 lenses with any Bessas except the T, and even then, it's marginal. And if you want to use the 135/2,8 (one of my favourites) you need an M body anyway...
Cheers,
Roger (who has just come back from Navarre shooting, among other things, 16-18-21 Tri-Elmar, 50/1.5 Sonnar and 135/2.8 on MP and M8)
Sorry: I should have made myself clearer. The difference is between a longer actual base, reduced to 0.58x/0.72x/0.85x, thereby reducing the effect of any mechanical errors (in a camera that is more precisely made to begin with) and a shorter base length, multiplied by about 1,5x, thereby magnifying any mechanical errors.Hi Roger,
I'm not really sure what you mean here - the Bessa T has a longer effective baseline than an M6 - 53.7mm for the T vs. 49.86 for a .72x M6. The .91 M3 seems to have the longest effective baseline at 62.33mm. Frankly, I'd be inclined to get an M3 with the Voigtlander VC Meter II instead of a Bessa.
I'd second your suggestion to buy a s/h M + VC meter, except that I'd recommend M2 for the 35-50-90 finder frames instead of 50-90-135. But if you don't like/use 35, that won't matter.
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