A centred main light, directly above the camera but slightly higher. It is slightly diffused, but only very slightly - there is fairly rapid fall-off.
I question the 'big' light source...shadow penumbra is not at all diffuse, the source is not 'soft'...ergo NOT 'big'
Hi there,
I would like to replicate this look but I wonder what could be the light setup. Any idea ?
View attachment 383422
Thanks !
Just wait a few years. You'll get there!
Go ahead and show us how you do this with a small, non-diffuse light source.
And I counter the challenge...how do you get shadows in facial creases and ear folds like that, with a big source?
And I counter the challenge...how do you get shadows in facial creases and ear folds like that, with a big source?
IDK; I'd expect the temples to be more brightly lit.By having two sources, one on each side.
By having two sources, one on each side.
Especially when using a light modifier (umbrella, soft box) modeling lights are too weak to give an accurate representation of the actual flash.This thread is a perfect illustration of the value of using modeling lights.
Better than digital tests - because a 5 cm re-adjustment of light position can reveal so much, and so much more intuitively and quickly than shoot and chimp.
Especially when using a light modifier (umbrella, soft box) modeling lights are too weak to give an accurate representation of the actual flash.
This thread is a perfect illustration of the value of using modeling lights.
Better than digital tests - because a 5 cm re-adjustment of light position can reveal so much, and so much more intuitively and quickly than shoot and chimp.
Especially when using a light modifier (umbrella, soft box) modeling lights are too weak to give an accurate representation of the actual flash.
You make many assumptions. I use Hensel professional-grade strobes. They use 300W halogen modeling lights. They still won't give a great indication of a strobe firing at 1500WS in a deep parabolic umbrella or soft box.It seems you may have only used light sources with a feeble bulb output...100W incandescent, in consumer-grade low cost strobes. I remember my very first studio strobe purchase, over 40 years ago...I rapidly discovered how anemic the modelling light was the first time I tried to shoot on location in someone's living room with sunlight entering the large window.
LED modelling lights now offered are a bit of a joke; they don't even mention what the output brightness is, or they confuse us with Lux and Lumen specs that mean nothing to a still photographer.
One needs, at bare minimum 150W incandescent to see in any room that is not darkened but has light entering windows. Even better is 250W incandescent brightness found typically in a good professional studio strobe.
And what the hell does that mean?Amen! Folks who try to do 'lighting' with portable flash units...they accomplish 'subject illumination' but not 'lighting'
And what the hell does that mean?
How do I view the image in question?
Not sure why you would be having any issues - it seems to be a normal upload in "png" format.
There would most probably be circular specular highlights in the eyes then.I would suggest this is taken using a ring flash.
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