Exp. 2013 T-max 400 (120)... Room temperature (22C)... Would you use it?

Juan Valdenebro

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Hello... I just found this roll inside a MF bag I haven't used for some time...
The only TMY2 I have right now, and I'd like to check its grain in D-76 1+2... I want to see ISO 650 for overcast... The roll has never received (more) heat... Could b+f be too high? Thanks...
 
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Juan Valdenebro

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Thank you, Tom... That's interesting... I guess the roll stopped being T-Max400 because it's blacks may have changed and its speed may have changed...
Looks like it won't be good for data at all (testing), but maybe it could be OK for some real shots... I mean, with a scene that doesn't require totally precise contrast control... Possibly with soft light...
I don't photograph under direct sun, so 200 would be like too much light for the expansion that's mandatory in my case, common overcast... Any ideas?
 
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Juan Valdenebro

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Tom, aren't ISO200 and reduced development optimal for contraction under direct sun?
I'm after the opposite... Gaining contrast after soft light... Expansion...
 

removed account4

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hi Juan
I can't speak for your exact film and conditions stored but I'd be brutal with your exposure and develop like it was normal ... me, I have used 20 year old expired tmy not tmy 2, and I always use coffee developer for everything but these days split ... ( caffenol c using the table spoon recipe and I put a thimble full of stock print developer in with every liter ). its low contrast by nature and for me at least it works, and when I split it it I use print developer ( dektol or Ansco 130 ) dilute 1:10 .. instead of 10 mins in the print developer ( which is normal ) I do 5, I agitate normally ( 1 full min then 10 sec / min ) for 5 mins, then the caffenol for 5 mins agitating continuously, NEVER had a roll that didn't come out well enough to print with an enlarger or scan or contact print. how will you print the images ? regular photo paper ? scan / digital ? .. I always figure its aways. better to have too much than not enough. too dense a negative at least burns the image on the film, not enough well, you're not happy... have fun !
John
 

MattKing

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Hi Juan.
Two springs ago I shot a number of rolls of 35mm T-Max 100 with a develop before date in 1998. They were exposed in high overcast lighting, so the conditions were fairly low in contrast.
I exposed them at an EI of 50 and developed them for a bit of extra (one grade?) contrast in replenished HC-110. I was happy with the results.
In essence I gave them an extra stop of exposure, plus the same additional development I would have used with that lighting, but fresh film.
My film had, however, been frozen for much of its storage.
 
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Juan Valdenebro

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I like that idea, Matt... Thanks!
Even if film is just fine, +1 and N+1 won't hurt overcast scenes...
I'll have to use the roll to see if fog stole my blacks...
 

Sirius Glass

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I would shoot it at ISO 400 and develop normally,
 

koraks

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Juan Valdenebro said:
Tom, aren't ISO200 and reduced development optimal for contraction under direct sun?
I'm after the opposite... Gaining contrast after soft light... Expansion...
Click to expand...
Then I'd personally shoot at between box speed and +1 stop over, and develop liberally. Maybe +30 to +50% development time or so.
A bit of overexposure won't hurt in overcoming the effects of old age.
Significant overdevelopment will get you the contrast you need.
 
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Juan Valdenebro

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In case film's right, and in case I use it normally, there's a chance I get a normal negative, but with some fogging: not too much I guess... So I'll probably get a normal print that just can't reach blacks normally...
Is there any way to solve that?
 

MattKing

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With T-Max films, and their long straight section in the characteristic curve, just increase the printing time.
The low contrast light will have controlled the highlight densities for you, and the long straight section of the curve will maintain separation.
 
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Juan Valdenebro

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Thank you, Matt... In that case, more printing time for blacks, I imagine a slightly overexposed negative would be perfect for that toning down to blacks after extended enlarger time... I guess half a stop should be enough to make room for taking all values down until base fog becomes black.
I'll try a normal expansion from ISO650, a small push as I won't use a speed enhancing developer but D-76, so I'll spot meter on gray card at that ISO and open half a stop... And I'll develop for 10% more time than usual...
In the end, I guess that should be close to what Tom recommended in one of the first replies: no matter what you plan to ask the film to do, give It more light... Sounds fine now, Tom, thanks...
It's been great help from everybody!
 

MattKing

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I'd be careful with using EI 650.
You want more densiity, to help overcome come fog. That was why I downrated my T-Max 100 at EI 50.
Try EI 400 and 200, with the same increase in development.
 

Bill Burk

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Have you checked the batch number? Might be before the “watermark” issue (exp. 2017), so you might be lucky there.
 

GarageBoy

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If you're metering at ei640, spotmetering grey and opening half a stop - isn't that the same as grey at iso400 anyways?
 
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Juan Valdenebro

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Bill Burk said:
Have you checked the batch number? Might be before the “watermark” issue (exp. 2017), so you might be lucky there.
Click to expand...

Hi Bill, never heard about that issue... I'll do a search , thank you...
The envelope Is closed: 0139 001 08/2013
I used to think some years without heat were nothing to b&w...
 
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