Exa 1a overhaul?

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RLangham

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Any advice before I open my Exa 1a to see if I can put a drop or two of oil on the shutter mechanism? I bought it today because I wanted the chimney finder and Meyer Domiplan that were mounted on it.
Only 60 and X speed work properly most of the time.
On the fast speeds, the mirror barely gets out of the way of the closing shutter, so only a horizontal slit is visible. On 30 (and sometimes 60 and X), the mirror gets out of the way in plenty of time but the closing shutter fails to overcome the latching mechanism and the slit hangs open at the top, failing to close. This doesn't happen when the camera is pointed down.
Now to me this indicates that neither part of the shutter is moving fast enough to do its job, which as nothing else seems to be wrong, seems like a job for a little lubricant. I have previously lubricated some simple shutters (Argus C3, back shutter on pacemaker speed graphic) as well as the mirror mechanism on several Canon A series SLR's, which had the famous Canon squeal. I used brass instrument valve and rotor oil as I was told that it was roughly equivalent to what a lot of repairmen used to use in a pinch, and I applied it in very small amounts with the tip of a sewing needle or a fine-grade hypodermic and syringe.

Anything to consider with disassembly or lubrication? Or am I off base in assuming that this may fix the problem?
 

Nicholas Lindan

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I'm sure you have found the "Learn Camera Repair" web site. If not,
https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Exa-Repair-Manual.pdf

Probably the best lubricant is Mobil 1 synthetic oil - it won't dry out and gum up. The problem with the original lubricant is probably that it has turned to a gummy residue over the years. Adding oil to the gum may or may not free things up, this is the reason for the usual lighter fluid flush of the old gummed up oil freeing the mechanism. If the flush isn't complete, or if the mechanism isn't re-lubricated, then the whole thing will jam up again.

With time the springs in the mechanism may have lost their spring, and a re-lube won't help with that problem. McMaster-Carr is a good source for small springs, as is Small Parts Inc.
https://www.mcmaster.com/springs/
https://www.smallpartsinc.com/ (also available on Amazon)

There isn't much on an old Exa to get damaged by a good solvent flush.

The wind mechanism may work better with some grease. I'm a fan of Corning vacuum grease but helicoid lubricant is a bit lighter and will work just as well.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...by_tool_jht9110_10_helicoid_grease_10_15.html
https://www.amazon.com/Corning-High-Vacuum-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B00CLGS92M

Both also work well for lubricating helicoids, natch.
 
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Tel

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I agree; lubricating without cleaning out the fossilized lubricant is probably a waste of time. Are you into Exas? I've got an Exa with a Telemegor on it that you can have for the cost of postage...
 
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RLangham

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I agree; lubricating without cleaning out the fossilized lubricant is probably a waste of time. Are you into Exas? I've got an Exa with a Telemegor on it that you can have for the cost of postage...
DM sent! That's a generous offer.

As for the flush, yes, I should have thought of that. Of course gummed lubricant is worse than none at all. Now, luckily, I don't think this is a particularly bad case. Both elements still swing freely at the press of the button, just lacking a little of the oomph that they need to accurately maintain the slit as they go.

I paid too much for this one by the way, because I liked the chimney finder a lot and especially the microprism screen that was in it (since transferred to the prism finder that's in my Exakta VX1000). The man seemed to think that Domiplans were rare and sought after...
 

cmacd123

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clean out the old lube, (but by disassembling and using a ultrasonic cleaner.) Nyoil is what many techs recommend. Mobil one is a synthetic, but it is not intended for such a low power mechanism.
 
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