• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Ethol LPD Recipe?


Thank you Gerald, time to brew
 
Warm tone developer

warm water(125f/52c) 750ml
sodium sulfite, dessicated 50g
hydroquinone 12.0g
sodium carbonate, dessicated 62.0g
phenidone 0.5g
potasium bromide 0.4g
cold water to make 1 L

dilute 1+1 and develope for 1 minute @ 68f/20c
for longer developing times dilute 1+3 and develope for 2 minutes @ 68f/20c
 
INCORRECT FORMULA

This is ID-78 but with the incorrect amount of Bromideit should be 4.5g. With only 0.4g it's not a warm tone developer,

This is one of Morgan & Lester's classic mistakes, the Photo Lab Index is riddled with them, unfortunately every other US book took formulae from them. The 3rd Edition of Anchell's Darkroom Cookbook is the first US book of Formulae book to be cross checked with manufacturers own data.

Ian

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nicholas Lindan said:
..........Minor White recommended the addition of both S. Carbide and P. Bromide to paper developer as a matter of course.
Click to expand...

I've never heard of sodium carbide in a developer? It's a while since I did chemistry, but I do remember a tiny bit of it, and I can't think of how it would be helpful in a developer.
 
Edtog said:
In the UK I got AG to stock it, been using it for a few months now and will probably stick with it.
Click to expand...

I think MrCad were stocking Ethol at one time but I prefered not to deal with them.

These days I just mix up what I want from raw chemistry, I've far more chemicals than I can ever use, and a colder tone developer is not to my taste anyway

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
I think MrCad were stocking Ethol at one time but I prefered not to deal with them.

These days I just mix up what I want from raw chemistry, I've far more chemicals than I can ever use, and a colder tone developer is not to my taste anyway

Ian
Click to expand...

Sometimes it's to mine. I'm not set on one tone only. Tonight (just got up out of the darkroom - it's 0530 here been at it since 2130 last night) I had a tray of LPD set up beside a tray of Ilford Warm Tone. Adox MCC 110 (and contacts on RC paper) went in the LPD. This was my first experience with Adox MCC 110 and it is GORGEOUS stuff in LPD, at least for those of us who like a neutral to cool tone in a rich paper for things like landscapes. Ilford MGWT went in the Ilford Warm Tone developer. I tried Drew Wiley's recommendation for using Kodak (well, actually Arista "Legacy" now - same formula) brown toner and found it worked wonderfully.

So now I have an 11x14 of a tree standing in running water of a swollen river that I'm really happy with on MCC 110 in LPD, light selenium (it DOES change tone in selenium 1+19 for 5 minutes, albeit subtle - but is the first paper I've seen that I prefer untoned when I want cool) - anyway, that image looks good cool. And I have a photo of a very old, abandoned store with door off the hinges and old rusted signs that I'm also happy with, on MGFBWT in IWT developer and a quick bath in dilute 1/4 strength brown toner. I don't think either image tone would work as well for the other image.

I guess what I'm saying in a thread on paper developers is "horses for courses" and all that. OTOH as I said before my experience has been that other neutral developers do as well as LPD, they just don't last as long.
 
Nicholas Lindan said:
Minor White recommended the addition of both S. Carbide and ...
Click to expand...

This statement makes absolutely no sense either chemically or photographically. Is sodium carbonate meant rather than sodium carbide?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
At one time sodium or potassium thiocyanate was added to developers to give better blacks. The amount used is 0.5 to 1.0 g/l. This is mentioned in Lootens "On Photographic Enlarging and Print Quality", 7th Ed, Am[hoto (New York:1967) p 205.
 
Gerald C Koch said:
At one time sodium or potassium thiocyanate was added to developers to give better blacks. The amount used is 0.5 to 1.0 g/l. This is mentioned in Lootens "On Photographic Enlarging and Print Quality", 7th Ed, Am[hoto (New York:1967) p 205.
Click to expand...

Thiosulphate and thiourea have also been used however the level needed is very low.

In a sense they don't give better blacks, rather they give colder tones so a bluer black. I have tried a trace of Thiourea and while it works the level need to be very low or you get fogging with modern papers.

Ian
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register