estimating exposure

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stradibarrius

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When you do not have a meter what are some tricks to estimating exposure ?
I know the the sunny 16 rule, are there some others?
If not what do you do if your rangefinder does not have a meter and you don't want to carry your hand held meter all the time?
 

Ian Grant

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Used to be within a stop. Back in the 60's my uncle & I used to guess the exposures for fun then check, he'd had to work that way before getting a meter, but we'd always be very close. 35+ years later I don't think I would be.

That was the way photographers used to work, they had crib sheets for time of year, weather, latitude etc as well.

Ian
 
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Doing a lot of guessing for general photography lately based on sunny 16 and accounting for contrast in b&w film. Been pretty close. And vc papers help too.
 

Anscojohn

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There used to be a guide packed in with each roll of film. Now it usually is printed inside the box.
 

ic-racer

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When you do not have a meter what are some tricks to estimating exposure ?
I know the the sunny 16 rule, are there some others?
If not what do you do if your rangefinder does not have a meter and you don't want to carry your hand held meter all the time?

The rest of the sky is around 3 to 4 stops less bright. So the shadows would be around f8 or f5.6. Then it also follows that a cloud over the sun (cloudy-bright) would be also about the same (f8 to f5.6). For me it gets more difficult at light levels lower than that but remember with B&W negative films you have six stops of overexposure latitude so error on the 'more exposure' side.

What I do is use the mental cheat-sheet for ISO 100 when exposing ISO 400 film. It spreads the exposure latitude more evenly to both the under-exposure and over-exposure sides (around 3 stops each way).
 

Sirius Glass

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Used to be within a stop. Back in the 60's my uncle & I used to guess the exposures for fun then check, he'd had to work that way before getting a meter, but we'd always be very close. 35+ years later I don't think I would be.

That was the way photographers used to work, they had crib sheets for time of year, weather, latitude etc as well.

Ian

Basically the physics of photons has not changed recently.

:D

Steve
 

Galah

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Some excellent reading:

www.fredparker.com

-F.

Agreed. :smile:

The best available exposition on the web:

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

BTW, some of the older rangefinders (e.g. by Voigtlander -e.g.the Vitomatic IIa- and Minolta -e.g. the Himatic 7s) actually have built in exposure value (e.v.) scales as part of their exposure arrangements, which makes the application of Fred Parker's technique simpler.
 
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removed account4

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i sometimes sunny 11 ... but i usually wing it 1/15thS wide open.
my results are usually pretty close.
 

amuderick

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i thought eyeballing outdoor exposure would be hard. then i realized that the Kodachrome slides I was scanning from the 50's were taken on an Argus C3 (manual exposure) and the photographer was no professional. i gave it a shot and guess what? after a few rolls I had it down. No meter for me.
 

steven_e007

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I have been having a lot of fun over the last few weeks trying out some folding roll film cameras with a couple of folding 35mm cameras thrown in. Not a rangefinder or lightmeter on any of them - pure photographer by 'wet finger in the wind method', and it has been loads of fun!

[smug]
What I have discovered is that I must be a pretty fair judge of distance, as most of my guesstimated focussing is usually ok.
[/smug]

With exposure, using the sunny 16 rule and common sense, I do fairly well, but with some errors. These are nearly always under-exposure. I suspect the reason is that your pupil dilates so you don't realise it's as dark as it is. It doesn't seem to work the other way around, very rarely do I over-expose. So that is the error, at least for me, to watch out for.

Thing is, with a digital camera (I have moaned about them considerably on another thread :wink: ) the mega-techno multi sensory zone compensated whatsaname metering system seems to get constantly fooled by black cats in coal cellers and white ones in the snow... and ALWAYS, ALWAYS by backlighting. And lets face it, most people shot outdoors have a bright sky behind them. Focussing too, the damn thing is always autofocussing on the wrong thing. :mad:

I find my success rate at getting a reasonably sharp, well exposed image by guesswork on a film camera averages out at about 80 to 90% I hope this will improve, now I've spotted my main error.. With the digital it is sometimes less than 50%.

Obviously with the digital you know straight away and delete half the pics and start again... but, my point is that no automatic metering system can beat a bit of common sense and a BRAIN. Even an old pickled one like mine.

Ah... I've just read the excellent Fred Parker article and he's said the same thing, only better... :rolleyes:
:smile:
 

Andy K

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Take a look at this day-night exposure sliderule.

http://fotosharp.com/day_night_exposure_calculator.html

Steve

$20.00 !!!! I made my own years ago for the cost of a little time using a word processor, a pair of scissors and some sticky backed plastic:

File4071.jpg



File4072.jpg
 

Steve Smith

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I made my own years ago for the cost of a little time using a word processor, a pair of scissors and some sticky backed plastic

I think I saw that episode of Blue Peter!!

(US readers are now confused).


Steve.
 

Sirius Glass

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Andy,

The one for $20 includes low light level photography including ice rinks; floodlit buildings and monuments; startrails; and moonlit scenes. For that price daylight and night time photography are covered. If one only wants to shoot in daylight use sunny 16.

It says Day Night Exposure Calculator.

Steve
 
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