Error in b/w film development

[lehmansa]

Hi everybody

I am new to this forum. I am starting a darkroom at home. by today i have a very provisional setup, but due to my impatience i had to develop that first 120 roll test.
I followed (more or less) the manufacturers guide with Ilfort delta 400, Ilfosol 3, Rapid Fixer (not new, used for several prints some days ago)

Please have a look at the photographed film strip. there were only two pictures developed (top part of the attachment, the first two i took) and the rest of the film ended up like the bottom part of the attachment. white film with yellowish and blackish clouds on one side of the film.

I think this is due to a faulty development technic by myself. Perhaps the already used fixer was to weak? And maybe the tank movement was not correct?
But the fact that two pictures were on the film and the rest ended up white irritates me. of course, my exposure in the camera was not that good, but there should at least be something, not?

Thanks for any kind of estimations and tipps.
Regards
Sascha

 

[Rick A]

Looks like the film was not loaded properly in the reel and touching itself.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

Well the edge markings are there and clear, it looks like a combination of camera not exposing film after your initial shots and the possibility that there was not enough chemistry in the tank, or when you loaded the film it was in contact with itself and blocked chemistry from getting to it. I would hold the camera to a light source and cycle through all the speeds with back open to check that the shutter is opening correctly.

 

[bernard_L]

Rapid Fixer (not new, used for several prints some days ago)

I (and most people) don't use the same fixer for paper and for film. I mean, different bottles and possibly dilutions, but from the same concentrated solution. Paper fixer stays in the tray for hours, may be contaminated by airborne dust or paper fibers. An improperly fixed print can be re-done; an imporperly fixed film can degrade irreversibly. Dilutions are in principle different (see datasheet) although some use film strength fixer (1+4) for prints. Check your fixer with an undeveloped film clip. In Ilford rapid fixer 1+4, clip becomes clear in ~25s. Monitor that clearing time: always fix for at least twice that time, and discard fixer when clelaring time has doubled from that of fresh fixer.

Apart from that, +1 for film sticking to itself (rather than shutter problem or incomplete filling), because of the contour is irregular, and is continuous between contiguous frames. What kind of developing tank are you using. I know that Real Men use metal spirals, but plastic spirals are IMO easiest for beginners.

 

[lehmansa]

Hi all, many thanks for your fast help!

- camera should work fine. Tested before buying and tested it right now again.
- i will use different fixer for paper and film in the future. i am aware that film has only "one life". this was only a testroll, no masterpieces ...
- you got me, i used normal paper fixer dilution, the possibility that i have to use a other ratio just did not come to my mind
- and as you read you see: i am a beginner but of course i wanted to have metal spirals but my second-hand starter kit came with the plastic ones fortunately. it did not feel wrong at all in the dark ...

but what irritates me is the fact that there are two pictures on the film and the rest is totally empty. but anywayl next time i will work more carefully.

Thanks and regards
Sascha

 

[Regular Rod]

Does your camera have a dark slide?

Did you remember to take it out when you made those exposures? It's easy to forget it.

Assuming you loaded your film correctly into the spiral, how much developer did you use in your tank? 500ml is a minimum for a roll of 120.

Keep the solutions you use for film just for film and the solutions for paper just for paper.

If there is no dark slide then you have a problem with the shutter not opening at certain speeds. Check it at all speeds...

The view that the film has ended up touching itself in the spiral is also probably right. It's a lot of errors at once, but no worries, you are getting them out of the way all in one go!



RR

 

[Xmas]

If the annotation in the edges of the film is good all along the length of the film then the processing and film is ok and you have a camera problem.

Please say what camera you used.

120 is difficult to load into the developing tank spiral you need to treat the film like it was butter fly wing material.

As a first attempt Id not feel bad. Try reloading posted film back into tank spiral in daylight, then with eyes closed.

Then please try again with 2nd film.

120 is like a bicycle falling off is necessary training.

 

[darkosaric]

Hi,

welcome to APUG . Which camera did you used? What kind of developer tank you have?

Regards,

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

I watched an UPS ad and UPS man was a tenor and he singed very loudly and perfectly HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO in the empty factory to find someone

Let me repeat

WHAT CAMERA DIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDD YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU USEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU WELLLCCOOOOOOMMEEE TO APUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I watched an UPS ad and UPS man was a tenor and he singed very loudly and perfectly HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO in the empty factory to find someone

Let me repeat

WHAT CAMERA DIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDD YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU USEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU WELLLCCOOOOOOMMEEE TO APUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

I knew this was coming.

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

 

[lehmansa]

Thanks for all your feedback!
so far:
- camera shutter will not open with dark slide on (hasselblad 500)
- i used to little developer! read the indication for 35mm film ...
- but even then, the fact that there is NOTHING on the film (exept the two images at the start) is strange, not?

anyway. got plenty of things to do better and more carfully next time!
thanks to everyone answering (and even singing )

Regards Sascha